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Entries in Alexander McQueen (6)

Friday
Feb052010

AVATAR SHOES INVADE FASHION RUNWAYS!

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN - ALIEN PLATFORM Not exactly what they are wearing on Pandora, but fashion designers from NY, Paris, & Milan have been showcasing platform shoes that are out of this world!

The trend has been rising for a few years  now, and who can say when it will reach it's peak or shall we say summit?   It seems that women have always wanted longer legs and smaller feet.   To say these shoes give you height, is an PANDORANS FROM AVATARunderstatement!  Balenciaga, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, and Ferragamo all have amazing platform shoes  for Fall 2009 and Spring 2010.

JOHN GALLIANO -GALACTIC GYPSY ON THE RUNWAYNo one can compete with Lady GaGa as the poster girl for the platform trend.   GaGa is an international style icon, and her image is as powerful - as her sound.    Her incredible video for BAD ROMANCE featured dazzling creations by Alexander McQueen.  With all her talent, maybe GaGa is from a galaxy far, far away.  She recently told Oprah that she had the idea of painting herself blue, long before Avatar came out.   Maybe James Cameron will ask GaGa to be in the sequel!LADY GAGA "BAD ROMANCE" - ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Of course Ferragamo is no stranger to platforms.   After all, Salvatore Ferragamo was the first designer to show the platform ( in fact, he received the first ever shoe patent for his cork wedge platform back in the 1937).    The image of his multi-colored platform wedge from the early 30's is known around the world.FERRAGAMO CIRCA 1932FERRAGAMO FALL 2009 - LUISA - PLATFORM STILETTO

For Spring 2010, the House of Ferragamo celebrates the legacy of Salvatore's innovation with a group of shoes inspired by the sea - and the iconic Ferragamo platform.    With countless folds of leather, painstakingly crafted by hand and studded for texture,  each shoe is a work of art.  Ferragamo was the first designer to utilize "sea leathers" or skins from the ocean.   Stingray, eel, python, and various fish skins were all in the designers collection in the 30's.FERRAGAMO GIORDANA - $1,150.00

The spring 2010 collection is full of neutral metallic options that are as hot with jeans as they are with that little party dress. The house has also just revamped their website - making purchasing on-line so much easier - click FERRAGAMO

Everyone knows that shoes have taken over as the HOT accessory in women's fashion.   You can rock your jeans from last year, but shoes are one item you want to invest in each season.   One or two great pairs can keep your entire wardrobe relevant.   

BALENCIAGA "TOY" SHOES - 2007/8In August of 2007, these colorful killers by Balenciaga ran in a story in Elle Magazine.  Inspired by toys (Legos), at the time they seemed really far fetched.   Fast forward a few years, and they seem to be right in step with the trend!


 

 

 

*Jason Jobson is a representative of Salvatore Ferragamo Inc.

Sunday
Oct182009

Creatures from the McQueen Lagoon!

McQUEEN SPRING 2010 - PHOTO- MARCIO MADIERACan someone give Alexander McQueen some happy pills?  The self appointed bad boy of British fashion, bankrolled by Gucci Group, Mr. McQueen dragged us through another season of making pretty models look ugly through a one note gimmick.     

For Spring 2010, the inspiration was an apocalyptic view of the future, where melted ice caps have created some type of hybrid human-sea creature.  WHAT?  The girls looked like some strange breed of antelopes, with long legs swallowed by ugly shoes creating a hoof like effect.  Hair followed suit, styled into mini horns or antlers.   The overall look is a cross between two movie images - Silence of the Lambs, and The Mothman Prophecies.  

Mr. McQueen, Can't you just design beautiful clothes for women who spend alot of money?McQUEEN - SPRING 2010 - MARCIO MADIERA   What is the problem?   Maybe you missed your calling as a costume designer for science fiction movie studios.   It's not too late!  Please do us all a favor and stop wasting runway time with these twisted visions of a misogynist's view of women.   I think the next year of your life would be better spent on an analyst's couch, rather than creating two more collections like this!  

I remain convinced McQueen is overrated as a designer, at least of Women's RTW.   I have owned a few pairs of his designs for Puma - which are great, but don't let a friend wear this RTW.  JENNIFER CONNELLY FOR BALENCIAGA Another design house in the Gucci Group stable, Balenciaga, showed a better version for Spring 2009 of a futuristic dream than this McQueen collection could ever be.    Jennifer Connelly is the face of Balenciaga and she showcased those beautiful creations, which by the way were an homage to the Balenciaga archives from the 30's.   Mr. McQueen, time to do something original - and commercially viable - pronto!

 

Saturday
Mar142009

Alexander McQueen and his Royal Flush?

Alexander McQueen presented his Fall 2009 collection in Paris last week.   The designer showed a collection that raised eyebrows but probably not department store orders.   While McQueen fashions himself the "rebel" of the fashion world, there is nothing like a global economic meltdown to put everyone in a reactionary mood that  compels even the most avant-garde fashion fan to think  "design a saleable collection!".Leigh Bowery

Models where costumed with oversized plastic lips that resembled the late performance artist Leigh Bowery.   Bowery was a major scene stealer during his heyday of the 80's.   He had a major influence on Boy George and many others in the design and music world.    Leigh was also a muse to painter Lucien Freud whose nude paintings of the obese Bowery are haunting.

The trouble with a collection like the one McQueen showed is that it was full of shock value and void of collection value.   In other words - what is the point?   It is almost as if McQueen was saying "No one buys my collection anyway - so let me do something to at least get press".    I wouldn't be the first to say that McQueen is a misogynist.   One may argue that some of the great designers have tortured their women for years.   Thierry Mugler for example was known to cut a torturous corset to achieve the hourglass curves his suits were known for.   The major difference is, Mugler's designs tortured women in order to make them beautiful.   McQueen dresses his women in costumes that mock them, for what purpose exactly?  The show looked like a b version of a cross between Victor & Rolf and John Galliano.   No offense meant to either of those collections.

Alexander McQueenI'm not buying McQueen's rebellious image - and unfortunately for him neither do the women who should be buying his collection.    Th powers that be at PPR/Gucci group who owns the label must just roll their eyes as they wait for this Peter Pan to wake up and realize he is not a kid anymore.   Let's hope for  his sake his collections for Target and Puma are bringing in the bucks.   I think the only flush associated with this collection would involve plumbing and not poker!



Monday
Feb022009

PUMA & ADIDAS KICK LUXURY BRANDS INTO THE BLACK

STELLA MCCARTNEYAt a time when luxury houses are nervously looking at the bottom line - industry giant PPR has found a way to boost profits without diffusing brand image.    The home of Gucci, YSL, and Balenciaga has engineered a plan to cash in on two of the younger brands that have living designers and a certain amount of Street cred.    Stella McCartney's collaboration with Adidas was the first step in this formula.    Take a runway collection and fuse it with functional, high end activewear.    Think yoga pants and running hoodies.    Every school kid in America used to wear Adidas and were tantalized by the school yard acronym of All Day I Dream About Sex...   McCartney is missing the best marketing campaign possibility ever..   Think beautiful images of her soft palette active wear, a women running by the water, with a breathy voice over - "All Day I Dream About STELLA".   Hello Madison avenue - there is your next big idea free of charge!!     The collaboration is a big hit and Adidas by Stella McCartney has a loyal following.    ADIDAS BY STELLA MCCARTNEY

In 2007, PPR acquired PUMA - one of the coolest sport and activewear companies in the world.   The PUMA collection has always had a cache with fashionistas that Adidas or Nike never has.    Some wondered if Stella would continue the relationship with Adidas.   After all, PPR doesn't own Adidas and Stella just has a contractual agreement with the company.   The thought was - why wouldn't PPR want Stella to design activewear for a brand they own - and stand to make more profits from.   

It turns out the powers that be at PPR had another goal in mind.   You see there was another collection in the stable of talent at PPR that was yet to find its way in the world regarding return on investment.  Alexander McQueen was another perfect candidate for the sport formula.  While the collection for Adidas by Stella was seen as a really cool thing to do - it was so much more than that.   It was conceived at a time when McCartney was not making money.   The rtw collection was over-ripening on the vine for several years.  ALEXANDER MCQUEEN While Stella's famous name and celebrity friends garner her editorial attention - that has never turned into dollars for retailers selling her wears.    While the company is forging along with fragrance ( the classic cash cow for designer brands) they have a long way to go.    Adidas brought home the bacon - or Fakon - Stella is a die-hard vegetarian.   Actually, this commitment to animal free products has greatly affected the bottom line as Stella will not produce leather accessories or shoes - which has all but killed those collections.   He best sellers are oversized chunky knits, that have become her most recognizable look.SIGNATURE MCCARTNEY DESIGN

Alexander McQueen is known as the bad boy of British Fashion.   He took the title from John Galliano.   Galliano was the rebel for years - but frankly - once you become hugely successful - there is less to rebel against.   Also, Galliano has turned himself into more of a British old lady with surgery and makeup than a rebel without a cause.  These days he is more crumpets and clotted cream than bangers and mash - not so rebel-ish.   

McQueen on the other  hand is all over the place.   He is a rebel.  Never one to feel the need to deliver beautiful clothing that women can wear - he creates rtw collections that inspire him.  ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FALL 2008 There are moments of clarity on his runway - but not so much of a consistent message - or image for that matter.   The tartan yes, but what about it?   Needless to say - McQueen also garners plenty of attention from the press for his antics on the runway- but not so much attention at the register when its time to ring up sales.   PUMA BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

McQueen's first collaboration with PUMA was a collection of men's sneakers.   They are slick and edgy and perfect for McQueen's bad boy image.   The inspiration for the collection is an image of a Puma fused with a man - called a Man Cat.   I kid you not, this is on the website.   It seems Alexander identifies with the Puma and sees the image as a version of himself fused with the animal.   The logo for the collection is a long fang that is a cross between that of a PUMA with the root of a human tooth.    Ok...   It looks cool anyway as a hang tag type of charm from the sneakers.

PPR announced that McQueen will expand the offering from PUMA to include a collection of sportswear for men and women.

The timing for both collaborations couldn't be better.   Every designer collection is looking for opportunities to expand lower price offerings.   The collections by Stella and Alexander for Adidas and Puma retail for approximately 1/10th of their namesake RTW collections -  SCORE!!!!   Whats next - Karl Lagerfeld for Nike?