Alexander McQueen presented his Fall 2009 collection in Paris last week. The designer showed a collection that raised eyebrows but probably not department store orders. While McQueen fashions himself the "rebel" of the fashion world, there is nothing like a global economic meltdown to put everyone in a reactionary mood that compels even the most avant-garde fashion fan to think "design a saleable collection!".
Models where costumed with oversized plastic lips that resembled the late performance artist Leigh Bowery. Bowery was a major scene stealer during his heyday of the 80's. He had a major influence on Boy George and many others in the design and music world. Leigh was also a muse to painter Lucien Freud whose nude paintings of the obese Bowery are haunting.
The trouble with a collection like the one McQueen showed is that it was full of shock value and void of collection value. In other words - what is the point? It is almost as if McQueen was saying "No one buys my collection anyway - so let me do something to at least get press". I wouldn't be the first to say that McQueen is a misogynist. One may argue that some of the great designers have tortured their women for years. Thierry Mugler for example was known to cut a torturous corset to achieve the hourglass curves his suits were known for. The major difference is, Mugler's designs tortured women in order to make them beautiful. McQueen dresses his women in costumes that mock them, for what purpose exactly? The show looked like a b version of a cross between Victor & Rolf and John Galliano. No offense meant to either of those collections.
I'm not buying McQueen's rebellious image - and unfortunately for him neither do the women who should be buying his collection. Th powers that be at PPR/Gucci group who owns the label must just roll their eyes as they wait for this Peter Pan to wake up and realize he is not a kid anymore. Let's hope for his sake his collections for Target and Puma are bringing in the bucks. I think the only flush associated with this collection would involve plumbing and not poker!