UNGARO SPRING 2010- IN A WORD - "NO"

ESTRELLA ARCHS & LINDSAY LOHANIn two words - HELL NO!   Taking a page out of reality TV, French fashion house Ungaro saw the debut collection under "Artistic Advisor" - Lindsay Lohan.  WHAT?  Did I sniff glue? 

What sounds like a trailer for a Disney movie ala Parent Trap ("Designer Trap"??) was actually a true event that unfolded in Paris during the spring 2010 fashion week.    UNGARO - SPRING 2010The genius we have to thank for this debacle is a man by the name of Mounir Moufarrige.   Mr. Moufarrige is one of those people you can't believe works in the fashion industry.   He clearly has no connection to the savoir faire of fashion nor the respect for the creative artists who build the industry.UNGARO - SPRING 2010

I had the opportunity to witness his management skills first hand when I was working as a consultant for the house of Chloe.  This was during the end of Karl Lagerfeld's reign and the first years of Stella McCartney's meteoric rise at that house.   Moufarrige was the CEO of Chloe and he had a terrible relationship with karl Lagerfeld. 

Karl wasn't the only one who couldn't stomach MM.   Moufarrige's big black Rolls Royce (parked illegally on the sidewalk in front of the Chloe corporate offices daily) was keyed on more than one occasion.   Can't imagine who could have done such a thing? 

As karl Stormed out of Chloe, Moufarrige had a trump card up his sleeve.   A bright young thing from London, fresh out of Central St. Martins school of design, and one who just happened to be the daughter of a rock icon-Paul McCartney of the Beatles.

The press went crazy for Stella, and her idea to mix her signature lingerie style designs with Savile Row tailoring was brilliant!   The look of Mix & Match started a trend that would sweep the industry as women all over the world started mixing soft and silky pieces with serious, tailored looks.   Chloe became the hottest name is fashion.   Buyers couldn't get enough.   Moufarrige couldn't be rude enough.  VINTAGE UNGARO- EMANUEL UNGARO

I'll never forget sitting in the beautiful ballroom of the Hotel - Royal Parc Monceau.  A legendary place that the rich and famous from all over the world  called a home away from home.   In fact, Omar Sharif called it home.  The iconic actor famously lived in the hotel as the owners had invited him to live free of charge - FOR LIFE back in the 60's!   The first time I saw him cross the hotel lobby one morning, it was so surreal- well into his 70's and still as handsome as ever and commanding attention from surprised hotel guests.

Inside the ballroom, things were less charming.   As we would prepare the collection for market sales to the buyers from around the world - Mr. Moufarrige caused eyes to roll from one end of the room to the other.  

Pricing a collection is always a complicated issue for a luxury fashion houses, as there are so many details that need to be considered.   Cost of the fabrics, hours of labor required from the tailors and artisans, cost of shipping and duty to the U.S, etc.    However, Mr. Moufarrige would reduce this complicated equation down to a simple sentence he would yell out to the U.S. team.   "Americans.. how much can you sell it for?".   Excuse me?   Are you talking to us?  or a hot dog vendor?  So much for Savoir Faire! 

Meanwhile at the house of Ungaro, so much has happened in the last decade that you almost need a scorecard to keep track.

Giambattista Valli had taken the baton from the namesake designer Emanuel Ungaro for several years.   The house of Ungaro was built on irreverent color combinations and prints that were iconic symbols of French fashion.   Valli had much respect for the aura that surrounded Ungaro and his beautiful designs helped carve out a name for himself with buyers and editors, leading to the launch of his own RTW collection.MOUNIR MOUFARRIGE & ESTEBAN CORTEZAR

Next up was a talented young designer Esteban Cortezar.   While media reaction to the youngest designer working in the industry was big, buyers were still waiting for Cortezar to find his groove before investing heavily.   But such is the path for a long term success.   An investment of time and money are needed for any successful venture.    What happens all too often these days is that a company hires a designer and expects a return on investment after one or two collections.   Crazy!   I think the large companies that offer fast fashion like H&M and Uniqlo have clouded the minds of some out of touch executives at luxury labels.   Fast Fashion companies see one time hits with super famous designers because they have a mega advertising budget, and production capabilities that can flood the market whenever they choose.   There is no way a luxury house can compete with that traffic.

For Spring 2010, designer Estrella Archs has been forced to endure Lindsay Lohan acting as the creative director for the collection.   What would have been Archs' first collection was a train wreck.   A mixed bag of party dresses and half baked outfits.   It was embarrassing.     I really feel for Archs.   You get the opportunity of your life to design for a house like Ungaro, and then you get handcuffed creatively to an out of control (and out of $$) child actress who is unraveling as her 15 minutes of fame winds down.

Choosing Lindsay Lohan for Ungaro was like the Republican party choosing Sarah Palin as John McCain's running mate.    You can't choose any young person to design the collection, just like the GOP couldn't choose any woman to be a VP candidate.  The lesson for Mr. Moufarrige should be "dumb luck runs out".    Emanuel, I hope you are not watching.

Creatures from the McQueen Lagoon!

McQUEEN SPRING 2010 - PHOTO- MARCIO MADIERACan someone give Alexander McQueen some happy pills?  The self appointed bad boy of British fashion, bankrolled by Gucci Group, Mr. McQueen dragged us through another season of making pretty models look ugly through a one note gimmick.     

For Spring 2010, the inspiration was an apocalyptic view of the future, where melted ice caps have created some type of hybrid human-sea creature.  WHAT?  The girls looked like some strange breed of antelopes, with long legs swallowed by ugly shoes creating a hoof like effect.  Hair followed suit, styled into mini horns or antlers.   The overall look is a cross between two movie images - Silence of the Lambs, and The Mothman Prophecies.  

Mr. McQueen, Can't you just design beautiful clothes for women who spend alot of money?McQUEEN - SPRING 2010 - MARCIO MADIERA   What is the problem?   Maybe you missed your calling as a costume designer for science fiction movie studios.   It's not too late!  Please do us all a favor and stop wasting runway time with these twisted visions of a misogynist's view of women.   I think the next year of your life would be better spent on an analyst's couch, rather than creating two more collections like this!  

I remain convinced McQueen is overrated as a designer, at least of Women's RTW.   I have owned a few pairs of his designs for Puma - which are great, but don't let a friend wear this RTW.  JENNIFER CONNELLY FOR BALENCIAGA Another design house in the Gucci Group stable, Balenciaga, showed a better version for Spring 2009 of a futuristic dream than this McQueen collection could ever be.    Jennifer Connelly is the face of Balenciaga and she showcased those beautiful creations, which by the way were an homage to the Balenciaga archives from the 30's.   Mr. McQueen, time to do something original - and commercially viable - pronto!

STELLA McCARTNEY PAINTS THE TOWN- "YES"

STELLA McCARTNEY-S/S 2010 - PHOTO: MARCIO MADEIRAAt least that is what the colorful backdrop painted by Trey Speegle spelled out at McCartney's show this week.   This subtle message, and the collection that followed, made it evident that Stella McCartney is in an upbeat mood for Spring 2010.   There were casual day looks and flirty, colorful pieces to wear at night.STELLA McCARTNEY-S/S 2010 - PHOTO: MARCIO MADEIRA

Something changed in Stella during the last 2 years.   Motherhood has definitely matured her tastes and her approach.   There is a marked difference in these collections.   Fall 2009 had serious but sexy lace pieces, and now Spring 2010 is blooming in colorful prints with flamenco ruffles that take you away!    It is the sophistication level that has changed.   Like great art work, harder to explain in words, but something you can just feel.  

McCartney first made a name for herself at the House of Chloe, succeeding Karl Lagerfeld as he ended his second stint at Chloe.  Karl helped put the house on the map in the 70's.  Stella burst onto the scene with the, then new, approach of mixing tailored suiting with soft, feminine items.  I was at those first Chloe shows in Paris and the collections were exciting and fresh.   As strong as those original suits were, this Spring 2010 Collection is stronger.  STELLA McCARTNEY AGAINST TREY SPEEGLE'S BACKDROP

Stella has matured in other aspects as well.  Each season, she has her runway backdrops painted by an artist whose work she appreciates, many times incorporating the work onto the invite to the show.   Also, there are contracts for several different collections that add another dimension to Stella McCartney as a brand.   The one- off collection for H&M, the new children's collection for GAP, and of course her ongoing collection for Adidas (All Day I Dream About Stella).   

Most Kudos should be given for her refusal to use leather in any of her collections of RTW, Accessories, or shoes.   A strict vegetarian, Stella has never budged from her stance on the issue, which is VERY difficult for any fashion house that is growing a business internationally.    Reason being, there are far fewer customers who can appreciate the value of a designer shoe, if it is not leather.

Physically, McCartney has changed as well.   Gone are the chubby cheeks of her youth.   In their place, motherhood has given her cheek bones!  Also, a lean, sinewy figure that suddenly makes her tiny frame seem 10 feet tall on the runway.    When she started at Chloe,  there was so much talk of her young age and baby face.   Well, make no mistake, Stella McCartney is all grown up.   After all, she is a wife, a mother, and at the helm of an international fashion house - that's not kid stuff!

To see the full collection, visit - STYLE.COM

HEE HAW! CHANEL GOES TO WALNUT GROVE!

CHANEL- Spring 2010 - PHOTO - MONICA FEUDIIf I didn't know better, I would think Karl read my post about Little House on the Prairie coming to broadway.  The king of RTW flung open the barn doors- literally at the grand palais in Paris yesterday for a roll in the hay - CHANEL Style.  

Laura Ingalls would be green with envy if Nellie Olson showed up in any of the gorgeous jackets and skirts that roostered around the runway.   There was hay on the floor and in the hair as Karl  gave a wink and  a nod to the age old  image of what goes on in the hay loft!    Who can forget  the classic scene in Mommie Dearest when Christina is off to college and trying to sew some wild oats (sorry, couldn't resist).   She was getting hot and heavy with a hunk in the stables when her  rival flung open the door and uttered that famous line "Oh.  I'm gonna TELL!".. and she did!    Cut to  the choking scene!CHANEL - SPRING 2010 - PHOTO- MONICA FEUDI

Anyway, back in Paris - Minnie Pearl wasn't there, but Rihanna and Prince were!  Thank Karl for bringing some lighthearted humor back to the fashion scene this season.   Lagerfeld always has a new trick up his sleeve for the setting of the most important show in Paris fashion week.   Although the runway usually has a theme based on one of the iconic CHANEL symbols - I guess Karl was feeling country!  Tweed, Pearls, Hay! One question...Where was Dolly Parton??  To see the whole Hoedown. visit Style.com