UNGARO SPRING 2010- IN A WORD - "NO"

ESTRELLA ARCHS & LINDSAY LOHANIn two words - HELL NO!   Taking a page out of reality TV, French fashion house Ungaro saw the debut collection under "Artistic Advisor" - Lindsay Lohan.  WHAT?  Did I sniff glue? 

What sounds like a trailer for a Disney movie ala Parent Trap ("Designer Trap"??) was actually a true event that unfolded in Paris during the spring 2010 fashion week.    UNGARO - SPRING 2010The genius we have to thank for this debacle is a man by the name of Mounir Moufarrige.   Mr. Moufarrige is one of those people you can't believe works in the fashion industry.   He clearly has no connection to the savoir faire of fashion nor the respect for the creative artists who build the industry.UNGARO - SPRING 2010

I had the opportunity to witness his management skills first hand when I was working as a consultant for the house of Chloe.  This was during the end of Karl Lagerfeld's reign and the first years of Stella McCartney's meteoric rise at that house.   Moufarrige was the CEO of Chloe and he had a terrible relationship with karl Lagerfeld. 

Karl wasn't the only one who couldn't stomach MM.   Moufarrige's big black Rolls Royce (parked illegally on the sidewalk in front of the Chloe corporate offices daily) was keyed on more than one occasion.   Can't imagine who could have done such a thing? 

As karl Stormed out of Chloe, Moufarrige had a trump card up his sleeve.   A bright young thing from London, fresh out of Central St. Martins school of design, and one who just happened to be the daughter of a rock icon-Paul McCartney of the Beatles.

The press went crazy for Stella, and her idea to mix her signature lingerie style designs with Savile Row tailoring was brilliant!   The look of Mix & Match started a trend that would sweep the industry as women all over the world started mixing soft and silky pieces with serious, tailored looks.   Chloe became the hottest name is fashion.   Buyers couldn't get enough.   Moufarrige couldn't be rude enough.  VINTAGE UNGARO- EMANUEL UNGARO

I'll never forget sitting in the beautiful ballroom of the Hotel - Royal Parc Monceau.  A legendary place that the rich and famous from all over the world  called a home away from home.   In fact, Omar Sharif called it home.  The iconic actor famously lived in the hotel as the owners had invited him to live free of charge - FOR LIFE back in the 60's!   The first time I saw him cross the hotel lobby one morning, it was so surreal- well into his 70's and still as handsome as ever and commanding attention from surprised hotel guests.

Inside the ballroom, things were less charming.   As we would prepare the collection for market sales to the buyers from around the world - Mr. Moufarrige caused eyes to roll from one end of the room to the other.  

Pricing a collection is always a complicated issue for a luxury fashion houses, as there are so many details that need to be considered.   Cost of the fabrics, hours of labor required from the tailors and artisans, cost of shipping and duty to the U.S, etc.    However, Mr. Moufarrige would reduce this complicated equation down to a simple sentence he would yell out to the U.S. team.   "Americans.. how much can you sell it for?".   Excuse me?   Are you talking to us?  or a hot dog vendor?  So much for Savoir Faire! 

Meanwhile at the house of Ungaro, so much has happened in the last decade that you almost need a scorecard to keep track.

Giambattista Valli had taken the baton from the namesake designer Emanuel Ungaro for several years.   The house of Ungaro was built on irreverent color combinations and prints that were iconic symbols of French fashion.   Valli had much respect for the aura that surrounded Ungaro and his beautiful designs helped carve out a name for himself with buyers and editors, leading to the launch of his own RTW collection.MOUNIR MOUFARRIGE & ESTEBAN CORTEZAR

Next up was a talented young designer Esteban Cortezar.   While media reaction to the youngest designer working in the industry was big, buyers were still waiting for Cortezar to find his groove before investing heavily.   But such is the path for a long term success.   An investment of time and money are needed for any successful venture.    What happens all too often these days is that a company hires a designer and expects a return on investment after one or two collections.   Crazy!   I think the large companies that offer fast fashion like H&M and Uniqlo have clouded the minds of some out of touch executives at luxury labels.   Fast Fashion companies see one time hits with super famous designers because they have a mega advertising budget, and production capabilities that can flood the market whenever they choose.   There is no way a luxury house can compete with that traffic.

For Spring 2010, designer Estrella Archs has been forced to endure Lindsay Lohan acting as the creative director for the collection.   What would have been Archs' first collection was a train wreck.   A mixed bag of party dresses and half baked outfits.   It was embarrassing.     I really feel for Archs.   You get the opportunity of your life to design for a house like Ungaro, and then you get handcuffed creatively to an out of control (and out of $$) child actress who is unraveling as her 15 minutes of fame winds down.

Choosing Lindsay Lohan for Ungaro was like the Republican party choosing Sarah Palin as John McCain's running mate.    You can't choose any young person to design the collection, just like the GOP couldn't choose any woman to be a VP candidate.  The lesson for Mr. Moufarrige should be "dumb luck runs out".    Emanuel, I hope you are not watching.