CHLOE FOR CHLOE - NO BRAINER

French fashion house Chloe is featuring actress and part time fashion designer Chloe Sevigny in the latest fragrance campaign for the namesake scent - Chloe.  The simplicity of the idea and the artistic direction of the ads are perfect.   

Chloe Sevigny is a unique character.   A symbol of New York Cool, Sevigny is always at the hottest spots to see and be seen.   However, unlike the mindless socialites and paparazzi loving tartlet-actresses that flutter around- Sevigny is always in charge.   For years, she was known as much for her social appearances as her acting career.   HBO changed all that by casting her in the hit series BIG LOVE.  Sevigny plays one of three "sister wives" in a devoutly religious polygamist family.    Sevigny can never complain about type casting, as just prior to BIG LOVE she starred in one of the most controversial films in recent memory.   Her role in The Brown Bunny drew attention for one act, more than the acting.   Sevigny's character performs oral sex on co-star,  writer, and director of the film Vincent Gallo.   No prosthetics were used, and the scene was let's say "authentically shot".      While the film itself was bad, and Gallo likely wrote the scene more to satiate his own exhibitionist obsession ( google him and his penis obsession) than to carry the story,  you have to commend Sevigny for having the guts to shoot that scene and maintain her artistic integrity.

The Chloe ads tap into a fresh, natural feeling that evokes a mood of the 70's.   Photographer Inez Van Lamsweerde was able to create images that are modern and nostalgic at the same time.  My super talented friend, Luigi Moreno was behind the fresh and clean hair styling that was so important to the campaign.   Like an updated version of the 1970's Breck Girl Shampoo ads, the shots maintain the balance between innocence and sensuality.    Casting Chloe for Chloe also strikes a balance between the traditionally feminine feeling the name Chloe means in France, with the much more androgynous tom-boy energy that Sevigny has.    Simply beautiful!  Watch the making of the Chloe ads - click - SHOOTING CHLOE

LEAN & CLEAN - CELINE - SPRING 2010

CELINE - SPRING 2010 - PHOTO: MONICA FEUDISo Fresh, So chic, so right on.   The first collection Phoebe Philo showed for Celine was a breath of fresh air for the French Fashion house - to say the least.   The collection is hitting boutiques as I type, and the pieces are sure to be coveted by fans of Philo's former work at Chloe - and any women who appreciate beautiful, classic fashion.PHOEBE PHILO

The collection was minimal in silhouette, yet luxurious in fabrication.   A perfect combination at a time when women are feeling strange about spending large sums of money, for clothing that seems too over the top or extravagant.   The Earth tones of tropical wool trousers and rich brown leathers give a feeling of heritage and permanence, but are cut in modern shapes that flatter.  Several dresses were strong points of the show and overall the palette was muted, but never mundane. CELINE - SS 2010 - PHOTO: MONICA FEUDI

It seems as if the few years Philo had away from the spotlight gave her a fresh perspective.   Her vision of Celine is relevant and accurate in her interpretation of what women want, and what Celine needs to recapture an audience.   While the house has a chic reputation - rarely has it rang true at the cash register. 

CELINE- SS 2010 PHOTO: MONICA FEUDIFormer creative director - Michael Kors , was never able to make the brand a household name in America.   To his credit, Mr. Kors was able to breathe new life into the ultra classic brand.  (Think Chanel before Lagerfeld).  This was of course before Mr. Kors was reborn as a judge on Project Runway- and had, himself, become a household name.   Timing is everything and maybe it would have been Celine boutiques popping up in every mall across America instead of Michael Kors boutiques, if things had been different.    I'm guessing Michael is happy with how that worked out! (Actually I know Michael from the beach and once, years ago, friends and I sneaked into his house to surprise him and his house guests.  We interrupted movie night by taking over the stereo to blast Beyonce's -Bootylicious and dance on his coffee table..we were neighbors and bored and obviously had enjoyed a few cocktails -but that is a story for another time..)  Bravo Michael, for having the foresight to say yes to Project Runway and for never taking yourself too seriously.   Your collection has never looked better!CELINE - SS 2010 PHOTO: MONICA FEUDI

As for Phoebe Philo and Celine - the best is yet to come.   Judging from the first collection for Spring 2010 - what is coming, should be fantastic!   The Spring 2010 collection will be limited to just 24 boutiques globally. CELINE - SS 2010 PHOTO: MONICA FEUDI Three locations are in the U.S.  

Available in New York at Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys, and in Bal Harbour, Florida at the Celine Boutique in the posh Bal Harbour Shops.   

I told you the collection would be coveted!   Click CELINE to visit the website.  Find the store nearest you, before the items are as long gone as my bootylicious beach memories! 

UNGARO SPRING 2010- IN A WORD - "NO"

ESTRELLA ARCHS & LINDSAY LOHANIn two words - HELL NO!   Taking a page out of reality TV, French fashion house Ungaro saw the debut collection under "Artistic Advisor" - Lindsay Lohan.  WHAT?  Did I sniff glue? 

What sounds like a trailer for a Disney movie ala Parent Trap ("Designer Trap"??) was actually a true event that unfolded in Paris during the spring 2010 fashion week.    UNGARO - SPRING 2010The genius we have to thank for this debacle is a man by the name of Mounir Moufarrige.   Mr. Moufarrige is one of those people you can't believe works in the fashion industry.   He clearly has no connection to the savoir faire of fashion nor the respect for the creative artists who build the industry.UNGARO - SPRING 2010

I had the opportunity to witness his management skills first hand when I was working as a consultant for the house of Chloe.  This was during the end of Karl Lagerfeld's reign and the first years of Stella McCartney's meteoric rise at that house.   Moufarrige was the CEO of Chloe and he had a terrible relationship with karl Lagerfeld. 

Karl wasn't the only one who couldn't stomach MM.   Moufarrige's big black Rolls Royce (parked illegally on the sidewalk in front of the Chloe corporate offices daily) was keyed on more than one occasion.   Can't imagine who could have done such a thing? 

As karl Stormed out of Chloe, Moufarrige had a trump card up his sleeve.   A bright young thing from London, fresh out of Central St. Martins school of design, and one who just happened to be the daughter of a rock icon-Paul McCartney of the Beatles.

The press went crazy for Stella, and her idea to mix her signature lingerie style designs with Savile Row tailoring was brilliant!   The look of Mix & Match started a trend that would sweep the industry as women all over the world started mixing soft and silky pieces with serious, tailored looks.   Chloe became the hottest name is fashion.   Buyers couldn't get enough.   Moufarrige couldn't be rude enough.  VINTAGE UNGARO- EMANUEL UNGARO

I'll never forget sitting in the beautiful ballroom of the Hotel - Royal Parc Monceau.  A legendary place that the rich and famous from all over the world  called a home away from home.   In fact, Omar Sharif called it home.  The iconic actor famously lived in the hotel as the owners had invited him to live free of charge - FOR LIFE back in the 60's!   The first time I saw him cross the hotel lobby one morning, it was so surreal- well into his 70's and still as handsome as ever and commanding attention from surprised hotel guests.

Inside the ballroom, things were less charming.   As we would prepare the collection for market sales to the buyers from around the world - Mr. Moufarrige caused eyes to roll from one end of the room to the other.  

Pricing a collection is always a complicated issue for a luxury fashion houses, as there are so many details that need to be considered.   Cost of the fabrics, hours of labor required from the tailors and artisans, cost of shipping and duty to the U.S, etc.    However, Mr. Moufarrige would reduce this complicated equation down to a simple sentence he would yell out to the U.S. team.   "Americans.. how much can you sell it for?".   Excuse me?   Are you talking to us?  or a hot dog vendor?  So much for Savoir Faire! 

Meanwhile at the house of Ungaro, so much has happened in the last decade that you almost need a scorecard to keep track.

Giambattista Valli had taken the baton from the namesake designer Emanuel Ungaro for several years.   The house of Ungaro was built on irreverent color combinations and prints that were iconic symbols of French fashion.   Valli had much respect for the aura that surrounded Ungaro and his beautiful designs helped carve out a name for himself with buyers and editors, leading to the launch of his own RTW collection.MOUNIR MOUFARRIGE & ESTEBAN CORTEZAR

Next up was a talented young designer Esteban Cortezar.   While media reaction to the youngest designer working in the industry was big, buyers were still waiting for Cortezar to find his groove before investing heavily.   But such is the path for a long term success.   An investment of time and money are needed for any successful venture.    What happens all too often these days is that a company hires a designer and expects a return on investment after one or two collections.   Crazy!   I think the large companies that offer fast fashion like H&M and Uniqlo have clouded the minds of some out of touch executives at luxury labels.   Fast Fashion companies see one time hits with super famous designers because they have a mega advertising budget, and production capabilities that can flood the market whenever they choose.   There is no way a luxury house can compete with that traffic.

For Spring 2010, designer Estrella Archs has been forced to endure Lindsay Lohan acting as the creative director for the collection.   What would have been Archs' first collection was a train wreck.   A mixed bag of party dresses and half baked outfits.   It was embarrassing.     I really feel for Archs.   You get the opportunity of your life to design for a house like Ungaro, and then you get handcuffed creatively to an out of control (and out of $$) child actress who is unraveling as her 15 minutes of fame winds down.

Choosing Lindsay Lohan for Ungaro was like the Republican party choosing Sarah Palin as John McCain's running mate.    You can't choose any young person to design the collection, just like the GOP couldn't choose any woman to be a VP candidate.  The lesson for Mr. Moufarrige should be "dumb luck runs out".    Emanuel, I hope you are not watching.

STELLA McCARTNEY PAINTS THE TOWN- "YES"

STELLA McCARTNEY-S/S 2010 - PHOTO: MARCIO MADEIRAAt least that is what the colorful backdrop painted by Trey Speegle spelled out at McCartney's show this week.   This subtle message, and the collection that followed, made it evident that Stella McCartney is in an upbeat mood for Spring 2010.   There were casual day looks and flirty, colorful pieces to wear at night.STELLA McCARTNEY-S/S 2010 - PHOTO: MARCIO MADEIRA

Something changed in Stella during the last 2 years.   Motherhood has definitely matured her tastes and her approach.   There is a marked difference in these collections.   Fall 2009 had serious but sexy lace pieces, and now Spring 2010 is blooming in colorful prints with flamenco ruffles that take you away!    It is the sophistication level that has changed.   Like great art work, harder to explain in words, but something you can just feel.  

McCartney first made a name for herself at the House of Chloe, succeeding Karl Lagerfeld as he ended his second stint at Chloe.  Karl helped put the house on the map in the 70's.  Stella burst onto the scene with the, then new, approach of mixing tailored suiting with soft, feminine items.  I was at those first Chloe shows in Paris and the collections were exciting and fresh.   As strong as those original suits were, this Spring 2010 Collection is stronger.  STELLA McCARTNEY AGAINST TREY SPEEGLE'S BACKDROP

Stella has matured in other aspects as well.  Each season, she has her runway backdrops painted by an artist whose work she appreciates, many times incorporating the work onto the invite to the show.   Also, there are contracts for several different collections that add another dimension to Stella McCartney as a brand.   The one- off collection for H&M, the new children's collection for GAP, and of course her ongoing collection for Adidas (All Day I Dream About Stella).   

Most Kudos should be given for her refusal to use leather in any of her collections of RTW, Accessories, or shoes.   A strict vegetarian, Stella has never budged from her stance on the issue, which is VERY difficult for any fashion house that is growing a business internationally.    Reason being, there are far fewer customers who can appreciate the value of a designer shoe, if it is not leather.

Physically, McCartney has changed as well.   Gone are the chubby cheeks of her youth.   In their place, motherhood has given her cheek bones!  Also, a lean, sinewy figure that suddenly makes her tiny frame seem 10 feet tall on the runway.    When she started at Chloe,  there was so much talk of her young age and baby face.   Well, make no mistake, Stella McCartney is all grown up.   After all, she is a wife, a mother, and at the helm of an international fashion house - that's not kid stuff!

To see the full collection, visit - STYLE.COM