STELLA - "McQueen" OF THE MET GALA

DESIGNER - STELLA McCARTNEYVogue Magazine's annual Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art was dominated by a very British designer, represented by a staggering number of gorgeous gowns and the leading ladies of Hollywood that wore them.  You would think I'm referring to Alexander McQueen. MADONNA IN STELLA MCCARTNEY - MET GALA 2011 The late designer is being honored by a retrospective at the Met's Costume Institute this spring titled Alexander McQueen - Savage Beauty.   However,GWYNETH PALTROW IN STELLA MCCARTNEY - MET GALA 2011 Stella McCartney was the British designer that stole the show.   While co-hosting the gala in honor of her late friend Lee McQueen, it was Stella's designs that could not be missed.  Never in the history of the Vogue / Met event has one designer make such a strong showing on the red carpet.   It would be an achievement to score one or two of NAOMI WATTS IN STELLA MCCARTNEY - MET GALA 2011these lovely ladies - but to have dressed all of them - unheard of!  The list goes on and on - Madonna in embroidered blue silk, Gwyneth Paltrow in nude crystal embroidery, Kate Winslet and Rihanna in black lace, Kate Hudson in gold stretch silk, Eva Mendes in Violet pleated silk, and so on! (19 in total!!)

Stella's collection has really come to fruition.  What was once a collection of hot items, is now a full fledged runway collection referenced by every major fashion magazine in the world.  (Not to mention her blinding number of collaborations in sport, beauty, & childrenswear).

Of course, no one at the House of McQueen can be too upset.  After Sarah Burton captured the attention of a worldwide audience by designing Kate Middleton's royal wedding dress, team McQueen must be on cloud 9. THANDIE NEWTON IN STELLA MCCARTNEY - MET GALA 2011  Also, it is all in the family - Stella McCartney, Like Alexander McQueen is part of PPR.     

One must give credit where credit is due.   Stella McCartney has earned her accolades with hard work and determination.  RIHANNA IN STELLA MCCARTNEY - MET GALA 2011 To achieve this success in the designer fashion world without producing any handbags, shoes, or clothing made from leather - again - unheard of.   Stella's personal convictions of a Vegetarian way of life could have crushed other designers.   As I've written before, for Stella to fight that fight with a partner KATE WINSLET IN STELLA MCCARTNEY - MET GALA 2011 like PPR - known for leather goods, is amazing.  KATE HUDSON IN STELLA MCCARTNEY - MET GALA 2011 Bravo to you Stella McCartney!  You upstaged every American Designer in their own backyard at this very New York event.   

Click Super Stella to visit McCartney's cool website  & McQueen at the MET for details on the retrospective:  Alexander McQueen - Savage Beauty

STELLA McCARTNEY PAINTS THE TOWN- "YES"

STELLA McCARTNEY-S/S 2010 - PHOTO: MARCIO MADEIRAAt least that is what the colorful backdrop painted by Trey Speegle spelled out at McCartney's show this week.   This subtle message, and the collection that followed, made it evident that Stella McCartney is in an upbeat mood for Spring 2010.   There were casual day looks and flirty, colorful pieces to wear at night.STELLA McCARTNEY-S/S 2010 - PHOTO: MARCIO MADEIRA

Something changed in Stella during the last 2 years.   Motherhood has definitely matured her tastes and her approach.   There is a marked difference in these collections.   Fall 2009 had serious but sexy lace pieces, and now Spring 2010 is blooming in colorful prints with flamenco ruffles that take you away!    It is the sophistication level that has changed.   Like great art work, harder to explain in words, but something you can just feel.  

McCartney first made a name for herself at the House of Chloe, succeeding Karl Lagerfeld as he ended his second stint at Chloe.  Karl helped put the house on the map in the 70's.  Stella burst onto the scene with the, then new, approach of mixing tailored suiting with soft, feminine items.  I was at those first Chloe shows in Paris and the collections were exciting and fresh.   As strong as those original suits were, this Spring 2010 Collection is stronger.  STELLA McCARTNEY AGAINST TREY SPEEGLE'S BACKDROP

Stella has matured in other aspects as well.  Each season, she has her runway backdrops painted by an artist whose work she appreciates, many times incorporating the work onto the invite to the show.   Also, there are contracts for several different collections that add another dimension to Stella McCartney as a brand.   The one- off collection for H&M, the new children's collection for GAP, and of course her ongoing collection for Adidas (All Day I Dream About Stella).   

Most Kudos should be given for her refusal to use leather in any of her collections of RTW, Accessories, or shoes.   A strict vegetarian, Stella has never budged from her stance on the issue, which is VERY difficult for any fashion house that is growing a business internationally.    Reason being, there are far fewer customers who can appreciate the value of a designer shoe, if it is not leather.

Physically, McCartney has changed as well.   Gone are the chubby cheeks of her youth.   In their place, motherhood has given her cheek bones!  Also, a lean, sinewy figure that suddenly makes her tiny frame seem 10 feet tall on the runway.    When she started at Chloe,  there was so much talk of her young age and baby face.   Well, make no mistake, Stella McCartney is all grown up.   After all, she is a wife, a mother, and at the helm of an international fashion house - that's not kid stuff!

To see the full collection, visit - STYLE.COM

PUMA & ADIDAS KICK LUXURY BRANDS INTO THE BLACK

STELLA MCCARTNEYAt a time when luxury houses are nervously looking at the bottom line - industry giant PPR has found a way to boost profits without diffusing brand image.    The home of Gucci, YSL, and Balenciaga has engineered a plan to cash in on two of the younger brands that have living designers and a certain amount of Street cred.    Stella McCartney's collaboration with Adidas was the first step in this formula.    Take a runway collection and fuse it with functional, high end activewear.    Think yoga pants and running hoodies.    Every school kid in America used to wear Adidas and were tantalized by the school yard acronym of All Day I Dream About Sex...   McCartney is missing the best marketing campaign possibility ever..   Think beautiful images of her soft palette active wear, a women running by the water, with a breathy voice over - "All Day I Dream About STELLA".   Hello Madison avenue - there is your next big idea free of charge!!     The collaboration is a big hit and Adidas by Stella McCartney has a loyal following.    ADIDAS BY STELLA MCCARTNEY

In 2007, PPR acquired PUMA - one of the coolest sport and activewear companies in the world.   The PUMA collection has always had a cache with fashionistas that Adidas or Nike never has.    Some wondered if Stella would continue the relationship with Adidas.   After all, PPR doesn't own Adidas and Stella just has a contractual agreement with the company.   The thought was - why wouldn't PPR want Stella to design activewear for a brand they own - and stand to make more profits from.   

It turns out the powers that be at PPR had another goal in mind.   You see there was another collection in the stable of talent at PPR that was yet to find its way in the world regarding return on investment.  Alexander McQueen was another perfect candidate for the sport formula.  While the collection for Adidas by Stella was seen as a really cool thing to do - it was so much more than that.   It was conceived at a time when McCartney was not making money.   The rtw collection was over-ripening on the vine for several years.  ALEXANDER MCQUEEN While Stella's famous name and celebrity friends garner her editorial attention - that has never turned into dollars for retailers selling her wears.    While the company is forging along with fragrance ( the classic cash cow for designer brands) they have a long way to go.    Adidas brought home the bacon - or Fakon - Stella is a die-hard vegetarian.   Actually, this commitment to animal free products has greatly affected the bottom line as Stella will not produce leather accessories or shoes - which has all but killed those collections.   He best sellers are oversized chunky knits, that have become her most recognizable look.SIGNATURE MCCARTNEY DESIGN

Alexander McQueen is known as the bad boy of British Fashion.   He took the title from John Galliano.   Galliano was the rebel for years - but frankly - once you become hugely successful - there is less to rebel against.   Also, Galliano has turned himself into more of a British old lady with surgery and makeup than a rebel without a cause.  These days he is more crumpets and clotted cream than bangers and mash - not so rebel-ish.   

McQueen on the other  hand is all over the place.   He is a rebel.  Never one to feel the need to deliver beautiful clothing that women can wear - he creates rtw collections that inspire him.  ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FALL 2008 There are moments of clarity on his runway - but not so much of a consistent message - or image for that matter.   The tartan yes, but what about it?   Needless to say - McQueen also garners plenty of attention from the press for his antics on the runway- but not so much attention at the register when its time to ring up sales.   PUMA BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

McQueen's first collaboration with PUMA was a collection of men's sneakers.   They are slick and edgy and perfect for McQueen's bad boy image.   The inspiration for the collection is an image of a Puma fused with a man - called a Man Cat.   I kid you not, this is on the website.   It seems Alexander identifies with the Puma and sees the image as a version of himself fused with the animal.   The logo for the collection is a long fang that is a cross between that of a PUMA with the root of a human tooth.    Ok...   It looks cool anyway as a hang tag type of charm from the sneakers.

PPR announced that McQueen will expand the offering from PUMA to include a collection of sportswear for men and women.

The timing for both collaborations couldn't be better.   Every designer collection is looking for opportunities to expand lower price offerings.   The collections by Stella and Alexander for Adidas and Puma retail for approximately 1/10th of their namesake RTW collections -  SCORE!!!!   Whats next - Karl Lagerfeld for Nike?

The British Invasion Continues

New York's Meat Market has been the "New" Soho for some time now.   The transformation is almost complete.   The neighborhood is just about unrecognizable from 5 years ago.   14th Street west of 9th Avenue is just like a mall near you - that is if you are lucky enough is live near a very nice mall!   The Apple mega store recently opened.    Barneys NY announced they plan to build a full size department store just down the street across from Jeffrey NY.   (Jeffrey is the man who put the hood on the map!).    Always known to have his finger on the pulse on what is cool - Hotelier Andre Balazs is opening a HUGE Standard Hotel in 09 here as well.

The latest designer to break ground is Matthew Williamson.   The British designer will feel right at home down the block from fellow Brits Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen.   All three designers are  Londoners, but that is about all they have in common.  Each has such distinctively different styles.  Psychologists could have a field day analyzing "what makes them tick" theories as to what they do.   I think it would be an interesting study to read!  One is known for oversized knits, one is known for avant garde evening wear, and the third uses wildly colorful prints season after season.  Calling Dr. Freud!

While this latest addition does put one more nail in the coffin of my low key Saturday morning plans... it will make the street more vibrant and bring more revenue to the city.    Stay tuned......