BANG BANG BOOKMARC

BOOKMARC - 400 BLEECKER STREET PH: Jason JobsonWhat might seem like a lost episode of the Twilight Zone is in fact just another day in retail on Bleecker Street in New York's West Village.   The street has become infamous for the waiting line for cupcakes at Magnolia Bakery.  More recently  the lines at the Marc Jacobs accessories boutique that sells Marc Marc Jacobs leather goods, t-shirts, and trinkets was rivaling the bakery!    Jacobs was the first designer to call the street home, and has increased his number of boutiques there year after year.    Last week the company opened the fifth store front on the street (seventh in the neighborhood).   BOOKMARC is the first full scale book shop for the company...   click   BOOKMARC-ED to read on and see more pictures of what's in store!

MADONNA DOES DISHES TO STAY IN VOGUE

DOLCE & GABBANA - SPRING 2010

This is really a "Campaign Watch" article, but I couldn't resist the temptation..   Madonna doing dishes is just too good of an opportunity to pass up.   The queen of re-invention is once again the star of a major fashion campaign for Spring 2010 as she works the kitchen for Dolce & Gabbana.  DOLCE & GABANNA - SPRING 2010

Madonna was just the face of Louis Vuitton, not for one, but two consecutive seasons.   Marc Jacobs was over the moon to have Madonna star in the campaigns back to back.   They were photographed together at parties, Madonna attended Marc's Spring fashion show, - clearly fashion friends.  THEN, Madonna posed for Dolce.  Friendship over.   Marc was quoted as saying that he doesn't want Madonna at his Fall 2010 fashion show - and that she was never invited to the last show.  The designer said she called and said she was coming - so what could he do?   What could he do?  How about not have her star in the campaign of the French fashion house you have creative control over?  Anyway, back to the Dolce Ads.

Madonna looks beautiful as she channels Sophia Loren in an homage to Sicilian cinema in Dolce & Gabbana's Spring campaign.   There is a sensuality and passion in the pictures that capture the era of the great Italian cinema of the 50's.  Cleavage and Pasta -now THATS Italian!  Like Cher, Madonna has continued to "Turn Back Time" year after year.   The latest images give her an other - worldly glow of youth and vitality.       

DOLCE & GABBANA - SPRING 2010Bravo D&G, you obviously got the attention of the fashion crowd - or at least of one fashion designer!  Bravo too to Madonna.  In a year when Lady GaGa has stolen her thunder from even the most die-hard fans, Madonna remains current in fashion mags around the world with this main line campaign.

FASHION WEEK - NOT FASHION WEAK!

TENTS AT BRYANT PARK - FEBRUARTY 2009

NY Fashion week is almost wrapped for fall 2009.   I know, you hardly noticed - right?   Nothing like a global recession to knock the wind out of luxury RTW collections.   Models falling off their platforms rebound faster than this retail migraine being felt around the world.  How can cashmere compare with cash poor?   It can't - but somehow it should.   We all know we are in a serious economic slowdown - but lets call it a re-adjustment and admit that at least part of the situation is emotional and psychological.  After- all is it shocking to anyone that suddenly those McMansions in the middle of nowhere, U.S. are now worth half their value?   They weren't worth anything to begin with!  just because you call it a gated community doesn't make it Bellaire people!  

I'm going to stay positive but be honest.   I was not excited for this show season.  New York never has the ooh -ahh factor that Paris has.   Maybe its in the water - you know when you try to buy a bagel in L.A. and its just not the same?   There is just something about French designers that make you swoon.   Is it the fabric?  no, many are the same used in NY collections as those in Paris.    Is it the venue?  Well, who could compete with the Grand Palais - but no.. most shows in the Bryant Park Tents are equivalent to those in the show spaces in Paris.   Of course it is the designers themselves and maybe the entire cultural approach to fashion.   In France - it is a national treasure.   In the U.S. its another thing that most people in the red states don't understand...and when they see it they say things like " who wears that?"

Remember when things were different?  NY shows used to follow London, Milan, and Paris.   NY designers used to be accused of being too "influenced" by the European shows by the time their designs hit the runway.   Mr. Helmet Lang changed all that a while back when he still had some fashion muscle to flex.   Mr. Lang  decided to show his collection in New York and before buyers and editors ran to Europe - and all the NY designers followed.   Like some rogue fashion terrorist Mr. Lang was able to upset the entire program -ruin labor day weekend for most in the biz and then disappear.  - but I digress.   Now American designers show their collections before European mega brands hit the runway... and hold their breath to see if they are still relevant after journalists and buyers take a trip to the Louvre.     Of course it shouldn't be a problem if you know what your doing - but if your collection looks like loving hands at home made it - your toast!

Of course there are American heavy weights who can carry a trend.   Marc Jacobs for example is a leader in the industry and his tenure at Louis Vuitton gives him the Teflon deflection for criticism that would destroy a newcomer or start up.   His days of fashion rebel or New York nerd are long over.   MARC JACOBS FALL 2009 Donna Karan stands out for the quality of her runway exits.  DONNA KAREN FALL 2009 While her name might not be synonymous with luxury - the designers of the runway collection are pure luxe!   They really headed back to the roots of the brand for Fall 2009 with wraps and folds and jersey all over.  Classic Donna Karan.

Proenza Schouler also continue to evolve each season.   There aren't many young collections that have the sophistication this collection has.  It is amazing how luxury can envelope creativity and produce something magical on the runway.   I can't wait to see where they are headed!PROENZA SCHOULER FALL 2009

I had to laugh reading some of the reported "in the know" fashion flock writing about  Ikram in Chicago as she emerged as Michelle Obama's fashion stylist.   It was written that Ikram Goldman has been "under the radar" and "elusive"- PLEASE.   Ms. Goldman has been doing an excellent job at editing and presenting her namesake boutique in Chicago for 10 years.   Anyone who has spent any time in a designer house should know her name and would have seen her at writing appointments.    I guess if you only sit in the front row at shows and scribble notes about frocks - but don't have any connection to the business - you might have missed Ikram.  But I think you should take a look behind you - or to the left or the right  once in a while.  Maybe now that we all woke up with a bling hangover from the Bush years - people will start to notice people again - not just Maybachs and mega rocks!JASON WU FALL 2009

Finally, all the talk about Jason Wu - also due to Mrs. Obama.   Rinse and repeat from my comments above.   Before January it was Jason who?   and now that we know him - I'm not so sure anyone is that excited by what he is showing.   But it is something new to write about...

SPROUSE IN THE HOUSE

STEPHEN SPROUSEStephen Sprouse was a unique individual.   Born and raised in Ohio, Sprouse was able to bring a sense of heartland America to his adopted home of NY's Bowery.   Known mostly as a fashion designer, Stephen was a true artist.   His medium shifted between fashion, pop art, and graphic design.   His collaboration with Debbie Harry of Blondie set the tone for his aesthetic.   Presenting sharpie style graffiti in sophisticated settings defined his fashion statement.   It was an new sense of punk and pop culture but shown in designer fashion.  The fashion industry was blown away by the audacity of the concept and Sprouse's first collections were bought by Bergdorf Goodman and Henri Bendel in the early 80's.   Neon and Day-glo had not been seen this way on 5th Avenue before Sprouse came to town.SPROUSE DESIGNED ALBUM COVER

When I think of Stephen Sprouse a mix of images come to mind.   I was an intern with photographer Francesco Scavullo and Stephen would visit the studio.   He had a dynamic image that he styled for himself.   Physically he reminded me of a cross between Iggy Pop and the Grinch - in the best possible way.   With signature Black tights and knit hat - with long hair (later wigs) it was the soft spoken, quiet person underneath that was a surprise.

Sprouse was greatly influenced by Andy Warhol.   At one point setting up his design studio in the former and final location of Warhol's Factory near Union Square.   Later, Sprouse received permission by the Warhol estate to use some of the artist's camouflage shortly after his death.   

In my mind  Stephen Sprouse always makes me think of artist's Kenny Sharf and Keith Haring.   In some strange way, they seem like the 3 students of the school of Warhol.   SPROUSE FOR LOUIS VUITTON

Clearly, Sprouse was a huge inspiration to many designers himself.   Most notably - Marc Jacobs.   Jacobs would take the hippie sensibility Stephen was tapping into when he designed the grunge collection for Perry Ellis that got him fired from the house - but set him on the road to his own greatness.  

In 2001 Jacobs brought Sprouse into the golden spotlight of Louis Vuitton.   The two collaborated on the graffiti monogram collection that became coveted collectibles the minute the hit the shelves at LV stores around the world.  While still remaining under the radar of main stream America, Sprouse landed  a hugely commercial gig   His collection for Target Stores called "Americaland" again tapped into that Americana sensibility that was in his DNA.   The collection ranged from flip flops and beach umbrellas to men's and women's clothing.    I had a boogie board and inner tube that were huge hits on the beach of Water Island that summer.    From Trailer Park to Park Ave.,  Stephen Sprouse designs were everywhere!

Stephen Sprouse is front and center again.   Celebrating the release of a fantastic book on the Artist and coordinated with Louis Vuitton boutiques - there are many places to learn about Sprouse.   Click on Louis Vuitton for a current retail experience  or click on Deitch projects for the current gallery retrospective.

The last time I saw Stephen Sprouse was late one night in Soho.   I love to take long walks by myself at night around New York.   It was around 11pm on a weekday and I came around a corner and almost bumped into Stephen.   He had on his signature black uniform - by this time long dark wig under his cap.   He startledSPROUSE FOR TARGET me which I think he liked as he smirked when our eyes met.    To some extent - I think that what he was always after.   An element of surprise - and giving what wasn't expected - something original.    How few people are like Stephen was.   Stephen Sprouse died of lung cancer in 2004 at the age of 50.