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Saturday
Feb072009

SPROUSE IN THE HOUSE

STEPHEN SPROUSEStephen Sprouse was a unique individual.   Born and raised in Ohio, Sprouse was able to bring a sense of heartland America to his adopted home of NY's Bowery.   Known mostly as a fashion designer, Stephen was a true artist.   His medium shifted between fashion, pop art, and graphic design.   His collaboration with Debbie Harry of Blondie set the tone for his aesthetic.   Presenting sharpie style graffiti in sophisticated settings defined his fashion statement.   It was an new sense of punk and pop culture but shown in designer fashion.  The fashion industry was blown away by the audacity of the concept and Sprouse's first collections were bought by Bergdorf Goodman and Henri Bendel in the early 80's.   Neon and Day-glo had not been seen this way on 5th Avenue before Sprouse came to town.SPROUSE DESIGNED ALBUM COVER

When I think of Stephen Sprouse a mix of images come to mind.   I was an intern with photographer Francesco Scavullo and Stephen would visit the studio.   He had a dynamic image that he styled for himself.   Physically he reminded me of a cross between Iggy Pop and the Grinch - in the best possible way.   With signature Black tights and knit hat - with long hair (later wigs) it was the soft spoken, quiet person underneath that was a surprise.

Sprouse was greatly influenced by Andy Warhol.   At one point setting up his design studio in the former and final location of Warhol's Factory near Union Square.   Later, Sprouse received permission by the Warhol estate to use some of the artist's camouflage shortly after his death.   

In my mind  Stephen Sprouse always makes me think of artist's Kenny Sharf and Keith Haring.   In some strange way, they seem like the 3 students of the school of Warhol.   SPROUSE FOR LOUIS VUITTON

Clearly, Sprouse was a huge inspiration to many designers himself.   Most notably - Marc Jacobs.   Jacobs would take the hippie sensibility Stephen was tapping into when he designed the grunge collection for Perry Ellis that got him fired from the house - but set him on the road to his own greatness.  

In 2001 Jacobs brought Sprouse into the golden spotlight of Louis Vuitton.   The two collaborated on the graffiti monogram collection that became coveted collectibles the minute the hit the shelves at LV stores around the world.  While still remaining under the radar of main stream America, Sprouse landed  a hugely commercial gig   His collection for Target Stores called "Americaland" again tapped into that Americana sensibility that was in his DNA.   The collection ranged from flip flops and beach umbrellas to men's and women's clothing.    I had a boogie board and inner tube that were huge hits on the beach of Water Island that summer.    From Trailer Park to Park Ave.,  Stephen Sprouse designs were everywhere!

Stephen Sprouse is front and center again.   Celebrating the release of a fantastic book on the Artist and coordinated with Louis Vuitton boutiques - there are many places to learn about Sprouse.   Click on Louis Vuitton for a current retail experience  or click on Deitch projects for the current gallery retrospective.

The last time I saw Stephen Sprouse was late one night in Soho.   I love to take long walks by myself at night around New York.   It was around 11pm on a weekday and I came around a corner and almost bumped into Stephen.   He had on his signature black uniform - by this time long dark wig under his cap.   He startledSPROUSE FOR TARGET me which I think he liked as he smirked when our eyes met.    To some extent - I think that what he was always after.   An element of surprise - and giving what wasn't expected - something original.    How few people are like Stephen was.   Stephen Sprouse died of lung cancer in 2004 at the age of 50. 

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