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Entries in Louis Vuitton (13)

Saturday
Feb072009

SPROUSE IN THE HOUSE

STEPHEN SPROUSEStephen Sprouse was a unique individual.   Born and raised in Ohio, Sprouse was able to bring a sense of heartland America to his adopted home of NY's Bowery.   Known mostly as a fashion designer, Stephen was a true artist.   His medium shifted between fashion, pop art, and graphic design.   His collaboration with Debbie Harry of Blondie set the tone for his aesthetic.   Presenting sharpie style graffiti in sophisticated settings defined his fashion statement.   It was an new sense of punk and pop culture but shown in designer fashion.  The fashion industry was blown away by the audacity of the concept and Sprouse's first collections were bought by Bergdorf Goodman and Henri Bendel in the early 80's.   Neon and Day-glo had not been seen this way on 5th Avenue before Sprouse came to town.SPROUSE DESIGNED ALBUM COVER

When I think of Stephen Sprouse a mix of images come to mind.   I was an intern with photographer Francesco Scavullo and Stephen would visit the studio.   He had a dynamic image that he styled for himself.   Physically he reminded me of a cross between Iggy Pop and the Grinch - in the best possible way.   With signature Black tights and knit hat - with long hair (later wigs) it was the soft spoken, quiet person underneath that was a surprise.

Sprouse was greatly influenced by Andy Warhol.   At one point setting up his design studio in the former and final location of Warhol's Factory near Union Square.   Later, Sprouse received permission by the Warhol estate to use some of the artist's camouflage shortly after his death.   

In my mind  Stephen Sprouse always makes me think of artist's Kenny Sharf and Keith Haring.   In some strange way, they seem like the 3 students of the school of Warhol.   SPROUSE FOR LOUIS VUITTON

Clearly, Sprouse was a huge inspiration to many designers himself.   Most notably - Marc Jacobs.   Jacobs would take the hippie sensibility Stephen was tapping into when he designed the grunge collection for Perry Ellis that got him fired from the house - but set him on the road to his own greatness.  

In 2001 Jacobs brought Sprouse into the golden spotlight of Louis Vuitton.   The two collaborated on the graffiti monogram collection that became coveted collectibles the minute the hit the shelves at LV stores around the world.  While still remaining under the radar of main stream America, Sprouse landed  a hugely commercial gig   His collection for Target Stores called "Americaland" again tapped into that Americana sensibility that was in his DNA.   The collection ranged from flip flops and beach umbrellas to men's and women's clothing.    I had a boogie board and inner tube that were huge hits on the beach of Water Island that summer.    From Trailer Park to Park Ave.,  Stephen Sprouse designs were everywhere!

Stephen Sprouse is front and center again.   Celebrating the release of a fantastic book on the Artist and coordinated with Louis Vuitton boutiques - there are many places to learn about Sprouse.   Click on Louis Vuitton for a current retail experience  or click on Deitch projects for the current gallery retrospective.

The last time I saw Stephen Sprouse was late one night in Soho.   I love to take long walks by myself at night around New York.   It was around 11pm on a weekday and I came around a corner and almost bumped into Stephen.   He had on his signature black uniform - by this time long dark wig under his cap.   He startledSPROUSE FOR TARGET me which I think he liked as he smirked when our eyes met.    To some extent - I think that what he was always after.   An element of surprise - and giving what wasn't expected - something original.    How few people are like Stephen was.   Stephen Sprouse died of lung cancer in 2004 at the age of 50. 

Monday
Jan052009

Less Luxury... Not less Luxe.

Happy New Year!   I thought we could all use a remind on this Monday after the long holiday weekend.   This is the day most of the fashion flock are back to work from their holiday trips to St. Barths, South America, Mexico, etc.   A hard look at the numbers of what happened over the last few weeks might make anyone happy to be reminded of new year cheer.   

Retailers went crazy with mark downs of up to 75% before Christmas!  This led to little excitement for shoppers after the holiday... with the stores setting themselves up for the disappointment.  

A message to the ladies out there...

In the new year you might see significantly less new designer hand bags, rtw, and shoes on your real housewife friends.   This is a good thing.   Yes, I said a good thing.   The U.S. was totally out of control over the last 3 years.   As many of you know, I spent a great deal of time traveling around the country in recent years.   I met many of you while hosting retail events in luxury department stores from coast to coast.    I must admit I was shocked by the amount of women who were buying $3,000.00 handbags like tic-tacs.   Many buying 2 or 3 at once!  This is not normal, and it is even revolting.    Of course, it meant great business for the sales associates in the stores and the powers that be encouraged them to sell, sell, sell.   They are not to blame as an adult should be able to take responsibility for their own purchases.    I hate to say that much of the "problem" women developed with their credit cards stemmed from a real lack of self worth and overall sense of being.   Women insecure because so and so has the latest, or the newest bag, shoe - whatever.   This is really sad.  Are we in high school?  I met countless women who could talk about little else than what celebrity was wearing what bag, or how many bags she had at home in her closet.   To both topics - who cares?   These same women lived in cities that are home to some of the greatest museums in the country, if not the world.    You all know who you are.... of course I'm not saying all women who like to shop have a problem.   The problem is not just limited to the ladies, I know some of you guys also got out of control.

This economic melt down is the wake-up call we all needed.    Today is a new day and a new year.   Take a hard look at yourself.   Make a list of things you are interested in that do not include shopping.   Get some hobbies, volunteer, join the gym, start a book club, etc.   Stop buying celebrity tabloid rag-azines and start buying fashion magazines again!  After all, those tabloids are aimed at a girl in her teens, not the strong woman you are.   Subscribe to Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, or Elle and READ the articles - don't just flip through the pictures!

If you have been cut off from shopping, it is not the end of the world.   If you were buying luxury items in the heyday, these items will be relevant for years to come.   You will not be out of fashion to wear them again and again - mixed with new items from inexpensive stores.   For example, white jeans can make just about any pair of shoes or handbag really pop!

The value of the pieces you own from Hermes, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, etc - is now higher than ever before.   When you can shop for a high price item, take your time and choose wisely. 

I'm in this with you.   Take a look around a Life of Style every week to learn about books, movies, cooking, decorating, etc.   Make 2009 the year you found the new you!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

Wednesday
Dec172008

LUXURY OVERLOAD - WHEN IS A LOGO OVER-EXPOSED?

Just how much luxury is too much?  When is a brand over-exposed?  This thought has been on my mind over the last two years as I travelled around the country.   Before the economy tanked in October, it seemed like everyone was obsessed with luxury.   The whole concept of luxury used to be reserved for the rich.   If something was luxurious, it was enjoyed by a small group of people who could afford this  luxury.   There has clearly been a shift in thinking.   Now there are "Luxe" and "Luxury" terms used in most mall store promotions.   Is this degrading to luxury?   Is this the evolution of the human existence?   Does luxury become available to more and more as a society matures?  Or is the opposite true?  Can the current economic disaster that unravels day by day be seen as a direct result of this luxury obsession?  

The mega brands of the world have made a conscious decision to lower the average price point of their products over the last 4 years.   There is now a wider range in price of products offered at Louis Vuitton and Gucci than ever before.   The idea is to capture more of the masses that are (or were) flocking to the stores.   These brands are also offering more ultra-luxe pieces with higher prices in the collections - but also broadening the base to compete with much more pedestrian brands.   The ultra expensive accessories work as P.R. for the little normal wallet for instance.   Much the same way couture promotes ready-to-wear and fragrance.

I spent some time in Nice, France this past summer.    France is home to LVMH and Louis Vuitton in particular.   I was surprised to see this curb marker with graffiti of  the LV logo.    One could argue that this type of penetration builds a level of street cred and promotes the brand.    One could also say that the logo is too exposed and now as ordinary as any other corporate logo.   I'm not sure which is true or truer.    What I do know is you would never see Hermes in graffiti like this and the last time I checked - they are still the most coveted, luxurious brand in the world.   

 

Thursday
Nov132008

Madonna to be Monogrammed by Louis Vuitton?

Rumors are swirling that Madonna is set to be the latest face in the yet to be seen campaign for French mega brand Louis Vuitton.   It would be the first major collaboration between Madonna and LV.   Creative director Marc Jacobs must be enamored by the fashion icon.  Madonna, of course no stranger to fashion has worked with major houses for 20 years.    Most notably on stage were the costumes Jean Paul Gaultier created for her Blond Ambition tour.   Remember - cone bras and garter belts!   

Lately, Madonna has been seen in quite a bit of Gucci - also another long standing relationship.   Tom Ford actually credits miss M for starting the buzz around his phenomenal rebirth of the brand in the 90's!     There was also the trippy campaign shot in Miami for Versace.   That was shot by Steven Meisel, the man rumored to be snapping Madonna once again for Louis Vuitton.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This summer Madonna made quite an entrance into the Rock and Roll Hall of fame induction ceremony wearing a sheer, hand embroidered Chanel dress.   This was a departure as Madonna and Karl Lagerfeld have never had anything other than a "polite" relationship.   

All hail Madonna, at 50 she is more in demand to designers than starlets in their 20's!!