LEGACY THE "NEW" LUXURY

GUCCI - FOREVER NOW CAMPAIGNNo industry  loves to promote a trend or a catch phrase like the fashion industry.   Season after season marketing campaigns tell us what is the "new" black or the latest silhouette that Women must have on their back and or in the closet.  During the 8 years of the Bush administration (sorry, no other way to capsule it!) consumers were drunk on credit and reacted like Pavlov's dogs to every marketing ploy.   Before the recession burst the bubble, fashion companies were also drunk on luxury.   Luxury was the "new black".    Everyone deserved  some "luxury" in their life.   

I knew the trend had reached a breaking point when I was walking through the Galleria Mall in Houston in the Spring of 2008.  Huge letters in the window of a two story Banana Republic store promoted " The Luxe Cashmere Collection".. ????  This said it all.    Mass marketers had gotten wise to the fact that they could convince customers to spend more money on items that were touted as luxury. LOUIS VUITTON ARTISAN AD  By using better fabrics, the items warranted a higher price - even though they were still being mass produced in China.  

In reality, how could you blame the mass merchants?  A new crop of CEO's at some of the luxury houses themselves had been doing the same thing for several years.   For the first time in history, luxury fashion items were not being produced for a rarified and special few.   The leather goods were being mass produced, often in China, but still marketed as French or Italian luxury items.  After all, they still were a luxury item, or were they?   At the same time that the fashion houses were significantly lowering the production cost of each item, they were dramatically raising the retail price of that same item.  Pure genius, or pure greed?  Or does one point have no bearing on the other?

The problem with the whole scenario is that like all things, more exposure ultimately leads to diminished demand.   What goes up, must come down.

Before the recession, luxury retailers like Neiman Marcus couldn't get the luxury goods fast enough from the mega-brands.   There is a (now hilarious) scene in the movie September Issue in which we see the NM executives asking Anna Wintour of Vogue to help them pressure the fashion companies to produce goods faster!  The hilarity is of course due to the fact that by the time the movie made it to theaters, NM was sitting on more merchandise than they knew what to do with.   They weren't alone of course.  The other designer department stores were overstocked to the rafters and in some cases much more so than Neiman Marcus.

The trouble started when  evil masterminds who were tied to the previous administration in Washington cooked up the concept of the adjustable rate mortgage.   This set in motion a catastrophic trend.   People who had no business buying houses were suddenly granted huge mortgages with almost no money down.   This gave the administration the proof on paper that more Americans owned homes than any time in history, which the administration could take credit for.   Then, since the economy was booming, the value of these homes increased dramatically which allowed these same people to take equity loans on homes that were built like gingerbread houses in gated communities in the middle of nowhere!  These people then proceeded to spend the money on everything from luxury vacations, to cars, to - you guessed it - designer handbags and shoes.  Why not?  They thought they would eventually sell the house they had put nothing down on - for a profit and move up.   It all sounded great, until the mirror cracked in the fall of 2008.   Didn't Bernie Madoff go to prison for a scheme just like this?

S/S 10 FERRAGAMO CAMPAIGNFast forward to 2010.   The worst of the recession is passed.  Things have leveled off.  The luxury sector is preparing for a big recovery.   However, they know it is too soon to be as flamboyant as 2006,7, & 8.  The solution is to market legacy as the new luxury.   The heritage and legacy of the brands that make the purchase a smart investment.  This IS of course the best reason there is to buy a luxury item.  The fact that luxury raw materials are used and that the items are crafted by experienced Artisans, is the whole point.

What is laughable at times is to see companies who have  in recent years made most of their billions by utilizing Chinese factories - advertising Artisan technique in ads featuring models who are as white as snow.   The ads run by Louis Vuitton has many doing a double take, as they think of Hermes when they see this type of quality and precise reference to Artisans.   I think LV did Hermes a favor.   Instead of boosting the LV image, it made you think - "what's new at Hermes?".

The true winners of the entire luxury fall out of course are the companies who never changed their standards due to the increase in demand.   Hermes remains at the top.   The company realized long ago that demand for their incredible goods only increases when they are scarce.   Some women still routinely put their name on the wait list for years in order to have their own Hermes Birkin.   Chanel is another house that refuses to employ football field size factories in China to produce their coveted leather goods.   All Chanel product is produced in Europe, with a majority still made in France.    Ferragamo is an Italian mega-brand with integrity in their production process.   With a staggering assortment of product, Ferragamo still produces every item in Italy.   No small task considering the company has over 550 boutiques globally!  Gucci is another Italian house that has focused an advertising campaign based on archive- workshop photos.   Frankly the Ferragamo archive pictures are more exciting, but the Gucci ads do tell the story.

So be on the lookout for the latest legacy ads.  There are sure to be many more, by companies you wouldn't expect to see touting their heritage.  But jumping on a trend is much easier than creating one.   Be an educated consumer and invest wisely when making those big ticket purchases!  There are so many exciting styles to choose from this year!   While the recession has made designers play it safer with RTW, accessories have never been more colorful or creative!  Click any of the designer links above and start shopping today - but only if you can afford it.  If not, window shopping and surfing is almost as much fun!  See you at the mall! 



HERE'S LOOKING AT YOU - DIOR

CHRISTIAN DIOR - SPRING 2010The house of Christian Dior tapped into the legacy of Hollywood for the Spring Summer 2010 campaign.   Model Karlie Kloss strikes an uncanny likeness to screen legend Lauren Bacall in the Noir themed ads shot by Steven Meisel.  

LAUREN BACALLLauren Bacall was an exotic beauty when she burst on the scene in the 1940's.  Her chemistry with screen heartthrob Humphrey Bogart (who would later be her husband) made her one half of the most famous pairings in the history of film.   Bogey and Bacall were the Hollywood "it" couple of their day.   Twenty five years her senior,  Humphry Bogart was the everyman hero.   Bogart, the unexpected leading man had women all over America hanging on his every word.   Bacall was unique for many reasons as well.   She was tall, she wore pants, and she had a male energy that gave her an androgynous appeal.   A striking beauty, that was ironically shy - which caused her to keep her head down while acting, which became one of her trademarks known as "The Look".   How perfect - it was Christian Dior's "New Look" collection from 1947 that made headlines around the world as he launched his eponymous fashion house.KARLIE KLOSS OR LAUREN BACALL?

The Dior ads are spectacular.   Intriguing and dark, they are sensual and alluring.   What is Lady Dior hiding behind those deep brown eyes?   What secrets are behind that gaze?   While Dior accessory ads can leave you scratching your head sometimes, the house tends to knock it out of the park when it comes to RTW and beauty shots.   Dior designer, John Galliano is a dreamer and a storyteller, so it makes perfect sense that this campaign is on the money.

Bacall's famous quote from- To Have and Have Not- from 1944 is timeless - " You know how to whistle, don't you"? - "Just put your lips together.... and blow!".   So just put your fingers together and click - DIOR.  

See how uncanny the likeness is for yourself.   Watch Bacall deliver that famous line below.

CANDY COLORED GEMS FROM MICHAEL DAWKINS

OVANDO'S "EL CORAZON" -$175.00Valentine's day is almost here, and I have a few suggestions that will be sure to have your sweetheart smiling from ear to ear.   There are three classics that are a sure fire hit - flowers, candy, & Jewelry - of course.  

New York based jewelry designer Michael Dawkins has just unveiled several new styles in his very successful "Fabienne" collection.   The collection of earrings, bracelets, & necklaces  are all set in sterling silver, featuring semiprecious stones.   Each is a perfect Valentine's day gift.   DESIGNER -MICHAEL DAWKINS  Candy colored gems  like Amethyst , Pink Pearls, Citrine and Blue Topaz are irresistible.  The earrings add movement and sparkle - but yet they don't overshadow or steal the show.   Just the perfect touch of glamour for that ear to ear grin I was talking about!    For the wrist, there are numerous bracelets that vary in weight and detail.   FABIENNE OPEN LINK BLUE TOPAZ -$595.00Michael's signature "Granulation" is found on most of the pieces.  That is how the designer describes the countless little beads of Sterling Silver that are applied by hand.   For over 20 years Michael Dawkins has been flattering women with his designs, inspired by forms found in nature.  His personal appearances at Neiman Marcus and Saks 5th Avenue stores throughout the country have built Michael a loyal following.   FABIENNE TWISTED LINK PEARL & CITRINE - $675.00

Sandra De Ovando was born and raised in FLORAL DESIGNER - SANDRE DE OVANDOMexico City, studied in Paris, and chose New York City as the place to open her eponymous studio of floral design.   With a unique look to almost every aspect of her approach,  Ovando's work feels cerebral, eclectic and powerful.  Ovando was also the first shop that was experimenting with succulent plants for years now, long before most other designers even carried them.   There is a darkness that is alluring and captivating, sexy and sensual - in everything she creates.    The cool factor here is off the chart.   OVANDO'S "ROMANTIC VALENTINE" - $150.00Any man or woman in your life would love something from Ovando.

French born Chocolate maker - Jacques Torres French born Jacques Torres has certainly found his home in NYC. CHOCOLATIER - JACQUES TORRES  Mr. Torres aka "Mr. Chocolate" has a skill for thinking of inventive chocolate creations.   Jacques is probably most famous for his incredible truffles.  His combinations will have you savoring your choices as you fill up a box of these heavenly little chocolates.   Also, not to be missed are the deadly dark chocolate covered espresso beans!  Torres has added some deliciously naughty gift ideas for the chocolate lover in your life.   "Spank Me" paddles made of chocolate and a "Chocolate Champagne Kissing Game"  are just the perfect way to end an evening that started with flowers and gems!

One word of wisdom for all the Romeos out there.   Don't make Valentine's day the time to buy your sweetheart lingerie. CHOCOLATE "SPANK ME" PADDLES  If that is your thing, do that throughout the year.  CHOCOLATE CHAMPAGNE "KISSING GAME" After all, isn't that more for you, than her anyway?  

Happy Valentine's Day...  click on the above sites to shop for your love NOW!

*Jason Jobson is a representative of Michael Dawkins.

CLASSIC AMERICAN STYLE - DOUGLAS HANNANT

DOUGLAS HANNANT - SPRING 2010There is a look and a feel to certain fashion collections that make them a calling card for their country of origin.  While it is hard to describe just what it is, you know it when you see it.  Christian Dior is that way for France.   Gucci is that way for Italy, and Douglas Hannant is all American. 

Designer clothing from America is totally unique.   While it can have the sophistication of a Parisian collection, there is a practicality to the look that separates it.   While it can have the sex appeal of an Italian collection, there is a Patrician undertone that remains at the core.DOUGLAS HANNANT -SPRING 2010

Douglas Hannant touches on  these design codes when he is creating, his now decade old, runway collection.   Hannant has developed a strong following of socialites and shopping sprites who appreciate beautiful clothing - but don't love a logo or a label to upstage them.  Usually, that means a woman who is more confident or one that is more conservative - an interesting contradiction.   What we saw after the fallout of 2009 is a parting of the seas for fashion shoppers.   Suddenly, the ladies not wearing letters twined around their tiny waists were the cool chicks.  Many women felt they were all logo'd up - with nowhere to go!    Collections like Hermes, Bottega Venetta, and Douglas Hannant and the ladies who love them don't have that issue.   Fans of these collections know that they are paying for the craftsmanship, the quality of the raw materials, and the unique design. 

DOUGLAS HANNANT AT THE PLAZAHannant loves color and is accommodating to his devoted ladies who know he will always have what they need - something pretty and appropriate.   Like the American design legend Bill Blass, Douglas Hannant is as comfortable designing a smart skirt suit - or that dramatic evening gown.   Naturally, he dresses the ladies who lunch in NY, Palm Beach, and all over the country.   What sets Hannant apart from many well known American collections is the fact that he also dresses their daughters. DOUGLAS HANNANT AT THE PLAZA  Something in the way Hannant uses fabrics and color - lends his design to the young and sexy girls, as well as the sensual but more conservative lady.   He has not become a resource for just "the party dress", or just "the gown".    His looks would be as flattering to Betsy Bloomingdale as they would to Daphne Guinness. 

As if the space were chosen by the casting department for some super stylish sequel to Breakfast at Tiffany's, Hannant opened his first ever boutique in the fabled Plaza Hotel in NYC.   The historic property famously underwent a 200 million dollar renovation two years ago, and has opened it's luxury retail center in stages.   The Plaza stands for everything that is American glamour ( even more now since the property is no longer in the grasp of The Donald!).   Hannant's boutique is right at home.   (The Plaza is also home to the fabulous French perfume collection - KRIGLER).

DOUGLAS HANNANT -SPRING 2010New York is a tough town, and the fashion world is a tough business.  To make it in this business for more than a decade requires more than great taste.   Tenacity and wise business decisions are critical.  DOUGLAS HANNANT Douglas and partner Frederic Anderson understand how to balance image and business- art and commerce.  The two have stayed true to the vision of the company and have found a way to flourish.  Timing is also a key ingredient.  While many companies had overextended themselves with crazy expansions in 07 and 08, Hannant was carefully planning his first retail boutique.  Not having gotten into retail at that crazy height in the commercial real estate bubble was brilliant.   

Another wise decision is the development of Hannant's Bridal collection - a natural extension of what he does for runway.    What better way to develop a client for years to come?  After all, if you can make her shine on the most important  day of her life, won't she also trust you to dress her for lunch?

For more information on all collections, visit the website.   

Plan a day to visit The Plaza, the Douglas Hannant Boutique, and Krigler Parfums.   All three are great examples of the beauty and savoir-faire that New York has to offer.  

DEEP FREEZE ALERT - HOTTEST JACKET -2010!

PATAGONIA - MEN'S "SWEATER" JACKET IN BLACKHappy New Year! The New decade has started off with a blast.. of FREEZING cold air that is!   All over the U.S., people are bundling up much more than they are used to.   New York is one thing, those of us that live in the Big Apple know just how bad the wicked wind of old man winter can be.   My friends in Miami, however, are freezing their tootsies off!  PATAGONIA - GOLDEN PALM "SWEATER" JACKET

Not to worry, I have the best solution for layering up this winter.   Even if you live in a warmer climate, this jacket is a great way to add warmth, while not bulking up and looking like the Michelin Man!

PATAGONIA - "SWEATER" VEST IN CONTINENTAL BLUEPatagonia makes a jacket that is so thin, and yet so warm.  Filled with the finest down, this "sweater" jacket will keep you smiling this crazy cold winter!  I finally realized just how toasty all those ducks are waddling around in the freezing water of central park!PATAGONIA - MENS "SWEATER" JACKET W/ HOOD IN FIRE RED

The "sweater" jacket by Patagonia is definitely the hottest jacket for those in the know in NYC.  You can't turn a corner from Tribeca to Chelsea without seeing one of the colorful versions of this super warm accessory.   Three versions are available - the Vest, the Jacket, and the Jacket w/ hood.  There are a slew of colors - slightly different for men and women.ODD DUCK SPOTTED IN LISBON, PORTUGAL

Great to wear under your favorite jacket (size down for slimmest fit) , but warm enough to be your protection from the coldest wind.     Prices from $150 - $250 - it also makes it very practical, and a trendy piece that won't break the bank.  Also kid's and baby versions available!

Click on any of the jackets, or Patagonia to shop on-line.

STAY WARM!