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Investigative journalist -Dana Thomas peels off the gold plating of some of the biggest names in fashion.

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« Classic Design or Avant-Garde Style - the choice is hers.... | Summer Must Haves - SPF & Fall Previews »
Tuesday
Jul142015

Silk Runway Shapes for Fall - Perfect for Summer Daydreams

FALL 2015 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO - ASYMMETRIC DETAILS, COLOR BLOCKED SILK DRESSES, METALIC ACCESSORIES - PH: MERT & MARCUSHow is your tan? Hopefully by now, you've had at least one day to get some sun this Summer season.   Mid July is always a bit of a balancing act for luxury fashion houses.  The Spring collections are on their way out (going, going, gone!) - just when many clients finally have the time to wrap their head, heart, and wallet around them.  COLORBLOCK - GEOMETRIC RTW, ASYMMETRIC DETAILS VIA LUXURY OUTERWEAR, AND ON-TREND ACCESSORIES - SALVTORE FERRAGAMO FALL 2015 - PH: MERT & MARCUS Of course, the Fall collections usually have some items that are "buy now, wear now" - however the pre-collections are typically more classic to the season - meaning more "Fall" like.  The sexier, special pieces are usually part of the runway collection that ships closer to actual cooler weather.   How's that for twisted logic?  Well fashion is an applied art, and like art, the world of luxury goods is not about reason or logic - it's about beauty, dreams, and seduction.    

 

IN PRINT

Mid July also means the Fall fashion campaigns are breaking day by day.  A campaign is meant to showcase a designers vision of the season.  To somehow convey the inspiration from the runway, in a more life like setting - or in a complete fantasy version of that vision.  At their best - campaigns should seduce, empower, and romance.   The Fall 2015 Salvatore Ferragamo campaign - shot again by star photogs Mert & Marcus - has all these ingredients and more.   Evoking a glamorous, modern lifestyle, the shoot somehow feels Hollywood, the East Coast, and even  "Weekend House of the Rich and Famous" "GLASS HOUSE" PHILIP JOHNSON'S ARCHITECTURAL MASTERPIECE IN CONNECTICUT Think Philip Johnson's icorni Glass House in Connecticut.  Rich in deep sensual color, with geometric color-blocking - the Fall collection should be a natural charmer to anyone that appreciates modern design.  There is a clean, crips sense of style.  Sexy, but Sophisticated.   Classic shapes - delivered in a modern way.  Again, Massimiliano found a way to put his finger on the pulse of what is on trend, while at the same time making it feel like it's all Ferragamo.    Beautiful.

The campaign is strong for several reasons.  Take note that Ready-To-Wear, Shoes, and Handbags are all represented in strong, meaningful shots.    A house of luxury - from head to toe.     

IN VOGUE, and in VOGUE

RED HOT RUNWAY - SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SILK SLIP DRESS - FALL 2015 - ALONG WITH COLOR BLOCKED BAG AND CHUNKY HEEL SLIP ON. PH: KARIM SADLI SHOOTS SUPERMODEL SASHA PIVOVAROVAVogue Magazine jumped on Salvatore Ferragamo runway early, showcasing the beautful patchwork SILK SLIP DRESS (one of the big trends of the Fall season) in the May issue.   Vogue waits for no season - and no actual delivery!  The magazine didn't build the iconic image it has by worrying what is in store now - or three months from now.  SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FALL 2015 SILK SLIP DRESS - $7,300.00 It can be challenging to customers (and especially sales associates!) when they are searching for that piece NOW..  but the romance has begun.   Adding to the allure is the price point of this beautiful intarsia dress.  At $7,300.00 is is one of the highest price points in the collection.   This "simple" dress is all about fine craftsmanship.   Sewing silk satin on the bias requires the hands of a true artisan.   There are only 12 of these dresses being produced for the United States.   TWELVE!  An ultimate limited edition, as only a select few will own it.   While the majority of shoppers will never have the budget to spend on a dress like this, it's always our job to keep the romance alive until a similar piece arrives.. or an accessory inspired by that piece.. be it a silk scarf, a skirt, etc.   In fact, in 2015, perhaps more than ever - the runway collection is the icing on an ever growing cake - multi-tiered.    So, it's less about selling one dress - and more about how seeing that dress (on the runway AND in Vogue) makes the right shopper feel about every other dress, shoe, and bag bearing the name Salvatore Ferragamo. 

IN THE BAG FERRAGAMO BUCKET BAG IN ORO (MIRROR CALF) - $1,290.00 - IN LIMITED EDITIONBUCKET BAG - $1,850.00, SUNGLASSES, AND RED HOT RUNWAY - SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FALL 2015 - PH: MERT & MARCUS

Along with slip dress, bucket bags are another big trend of the Fall season.   The appeal is simple.  The effortless style, the ability to carry so much, and the unstructured nature just make them feel cozy and comfortable. FERRAGAMO BUCKET BAG IN RICH CALFSKIN - $2,050.00 Being a house of luxury fashion, Ferragamo has some ultra-luxe examples that are all "fashion statement" - of course!   Find a size and a shape that works for your best clients.. or for your next shoe client.   Then add a scarf, and a knit.  She might be able to carry them all in a bucket bag!  What's more comfortable than a leather bag on your shoulder, easy to get into to, fits your wallet - any wallet, and can also be worn across the body if your hands are full?  A bucket bag is a classic for a reason, and a great trend for Fall 2015.PROENZA SCHOULER PATCHWORK BUCKET BAG

Made In Italy - More relevent than ever!

We celebrate the savoir faire of Italian craftsmanship every day, season after season, year after year, and decade after decade.   What is amazing, is that every year - it is more relevent, luxurious, and rare.   Especially when you look at the retail environment found in every shopping center in the US.   There are the select few luxury brands on par with Ferragamo.   Dior, Chanel, Hermes, and Bottega Veneta are four that come to mind.   However, more often than not customers are bombarded by images from brands presenting themselves as luxury houses,LOEWE (SAY LOW EV AY ) TAN BUCKET BAG but in fact are high volume discount brands playing bait and switch with the idea of designer fashion.    Sadly, too often they are the American Brands.   I mean Tory Burch, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Reed Krakoff, and recently J.Crew.   Far and few between are collections like Proenza Schouler or Oscar de la Renta that can make 7th avenue proud in my book.  Too often the Tory, Ralph, and Reed (while he remains in business) present strong images of luxury, put produce the bulk of their collections in massive factories in China, and now India - where volume and profit margin, not luxury is key.   Of course  producing in those countries is fine, when the price point reflects the lack of investment in Artisinal craftsmanship.  However, how can those companies be proud when they charge prices normally reserved for Made In Italy or France quality... just because they can.   Those earnings are not passed on to underpaid employees in those countries for sure.   However, maybe they can't.   Ralph Lauren has been facing recent investors discontent on their profitability.   J.Crew famously lost 600 Million dollars in one quarter last year!!   Some say it was the introduction of $1,200.00 sweat pant, or cancelling a a most popular style of shoe - a ballet flat, or shipping millions of cardigans too short.   I think all three possibilities make the point - what does that company stand for?  Who are they?   Do they even know their customer? Or care what they want?

At a time when these impostors of luxury are in a bit of a tail spin, take a moment to reflect on how rare, and special it is to work with a collection like Salvatore Ferragamo.  I've considered myself so lucky to work with luxury houses for my 20 years in the business.   I'm never jaded to these works of art.   How can we be, when so few ever get to see it?  We work in a luxury playground. Don't you think?

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