SIGN OF THE TIMES?

Shopping at CHANEL  in Paris during the January sales.    

Come see the collection.. and leave off the last L for Luxury!!   Just kidding - but the L was MIA on the window at Chanel.  

To be fair this was NOT the Rue Cambon boutique - but a shop in shop at one of the big department stores.  

I guess it was SO busy during the sales - the L got ripped right off the window!

FASHION WEEK - NOT FASHION WEAK!

TENTS AT BRYANT PARK - FEBRUARTY 2009

NY Fashion week is almost wrapped for fall 2009.   I know, you hardly noticed - right?   Nothing like a global recession to knock the wind out of luxury RTW collections.   Models falling off their platforms rebound faster than this retail migraine being felt around the world.  How can cashmere compare with cash poor?   It can't - but somehow it should.   We all know we are in a serious economic slowdown - but lets call it a re-adjustment and admit that at least part of the situation is emotional and psychological.  After- all is it shocking to anyone that suddenly those McMansions in the middle of nowhere, U.S. are now worth half their value?   They weren't worth anything to begin with!  just because you call it a gated community doesn't make it Bellaire people!  

I'm going to stay positive but be honest.   I was not excited for this show season.  New York never has the ooh -ahh factor that Paris has.   Maybe its in the water - you know when you try to buy a bagel in L.A. and its just not the same?   There is just something about French designers that make you swoon.   Is it the fabric?  no, many are the same used in NY collections as those in Paris.    Is it the venue?  Well, who could compete with the Grand Palais - but no.. most shows in the Bryant Park Tents are equivalent to those in the show spaces in Paris.   Of course it is the designers themselves and maybe the entire cultural approach to fashion.   In France - it is a national treasure.   In the U.S. its another thing that most people in the red states don't understand...and when they see it they say things like " who wears that?"

Remember when things were different?  NY shows used to follow London, Milan, and Paris.   NY designers used to be accused of being too "influenced" by the European shows by the time their designs hit the runway.   Mr. Helmet Lang changed all that a while back when he still had some fashion muscle to flex.   Mr. Lang  decided to show his collection in New York and before buyers and editors ran to Europe - and all the NY designers followed.   Like some rogue fashion terrorist Mr. Lang was able to upset the entire program -ruin labor day weekend for most in the biz and then disappear.  - but I digress.   Now American designers show their collections before European mega brands hit the runway... and hold their breath to see if they are still relevant after journalists and buyers take a trip to the Louvre.     Of course it shouldn't be a problem if you know what your doing - but if your collection looks like loving hands at home made it - your toast!

Of course there are American heavy weights who can carry a trend.   Marc Jacobs for example is a leader in the industry and his tenure at Louis Vuitton gives him the Teflon deflection for criticism that would destroy a newcomer or start up.   His days of fashion rebel or New York nerd are long over.   MARC JACOBS FALL 2009 Donna Karan stands out for the quality of her runway exits.  DONNA KAREN FALL 2009 While her name might not be synonymous with luxury - the designers of the runway collection are pure luxe!   They really headed back to the roots of the brand for Fall 2009 with wraps and folds and jersey all over.  Classic Donna Karan.

Proenza Schouler also continue to evolve each season.   There aren't many young collections that have the sophistication this collection has.  It is amazing how luxury can envelope creativity and produce something magical on the runway.   I can't wait to see where they are headed!PROENZA SCHOULER FALL 2009

I had to laugh reading some of the reported "in the know" fashion flock writing about  Ikram in Chicago as she emerged as Michelle Obama's fashion stylist.   It was written that Ikram Goldman has been "under the radar" and "elusive"- PLEASE.   Ms. Goldman has been doing an excellent job at editing and presenting her namesake boutique in Chicago for 10 years.   Anyone who has spent any time in a designer house should know her name and would have seen her at writing appointments.    I guess if you only sit in the front row at shows and scribble notes about frocks - but don't have any connection to the business - you might have missed Ikram.  But I think you should take a look behind you - or to the left or the right  once in a while.  Maybe now that we all woke up with a bling hangover from the Bush years - people will start to notice people again - not just Maybachs and mega rocks!JASON WU FALL 2009

Finally, all the talk about Jason Wu - also due to Mrs. Obama.   Rinse and repeat from my comments above.   Before January it was Jason who?   and now that we know him - I'm not so sure anyone is that excited by what he is showing.   But it is something new to write about...

SCENT OF A LEGACY - KRIGLER PARFUM

 

It seems like every day we see new advertisements touting new fragrance collections that we simply must have!  Usually they are the requisite scent of a fashion collection or skin care line that is more marketing plan than olfactory creation.  Either that or they are the payday to a Hollywood name looking to round out their financial portfolio.

For all these reasons and more- the arrival of French Parfumer KRIGLER at the Plaza Hotel is a breath of fresh air - pardon the fragrance pun!

KRIGLER is a 5th generation fragrance house with Russian roots and French savoir faire.   Mr. Ben Krigler is the man behind the revamp and re-launch of his family's legacy.   Born in France, Mr. Krigler grew up splitting his time between the two countries and feels as at home in New York as he does in Paris.

10 years ago Ben Krigler re-launched the company and undertook the daunting task of recreating the original formulas, bottles, and packaging.    The first product to make it to market was a luxurious candle collection.   Based on fragrances - these are not your average candle.  In fact, each has twice the essential oil of most commercial candles sold today.   So much in fact, the vegetable based wax can be rubbed on the skin as a moisturizer!   Due to the high content of oil the candles burn for over 40 hours.   My favorite is "Established Cognac" that has a wonderful scent of cognac with a musk undertone - very rich and sensual at the same time.   Mr. Krigler spent several years re-launching the colleciton in the most luxurious retail locations in the world such as Browns in London.  There are over 70 points of sale in 30 countries.

PLAZA HOTELWhen it came time to relaunch a retail concept of his own- Mr. Krigler knew New York was the place.  

Serendipity intervened.   In 2007 when the Plaza hotel began a $400 million dollar renovation of the landmark building - the developers contacted a select few brands to be part of The Plaza Retail Collection.   Mr. Krigler's grandfather had sold the collection at the Plaza back in the 1930's.   The only address the Plaza had on file for Mr. Krigler was long since obsolete.  Unbelievably, the French post office was able to trace the Krigler name to Grasse - where the company has one of the workshops and develops the namesake parfums.

The Fragrances are a treat any women would fall in love with instantly.   One dazzling scent is aptly titled Sparking Diamonds and has a champagne base that takes one year to perfect.   Each bottle has a splash of Swarovski crystals at the bottom to represent the namesake scent.  The collaboration with Swarovski is a tribute to Mr. Kriglers grandfather.   Years and years ago, the elder Mr. Krigler had a very lucky night at the casino in Monte Carlo.   He won big and to celebrate he bought his wife diamond earrings and two bottles of Champagne.   He was inspired by love to create the Sparkling Diamonds parfum.ARTISANAL SOAPS

Every scent in the collection has a story and a number associated with it.   I really encourage you to find your way to the Plaza shops and if you are lucky - find Mr. Krigler himself in the boutique.   I did, and it was a true pleasure to speak with someone so passionate about his family legacy.  KRIGLER PARFUM , KRIGLER CANDLES  The pricing of the collection is also a pleasant surprise.   Ranging from $15 for beautifully scented soaps - $68- $142 for the Parfums - and $58.00 for the luxury candles - the entire range is well priced.KRIGLER LOGO - PLAZA HOTEL NYC

There is so much to come in 2009 for the collection.   A Life Of Style will be checking back on the House of  KRIGLER for exciting additions to the collection!

KRIGLER

The Plaza Retail Collection

One West 58th Street

New York, NY 10019

T: 212 371 1122

 

SPROUSE IN THE HOUSE

STEPHEN SPROUSEStephen Sprouse was a unique individual.   Born and raised in Ohio, Sprouse was able to bring a sense of heartland America to his adopted home of NY's Bowery.   Known mostly as a fashion designer, Stephen was a true artist.   His medium shifted between fashion, pop art, and graphic design.   His collaboration with Debbie Harry of Blondie set the tone for his aesthetic.   Presenting sharpie style graffiti in sophisticated settings defined his fashion statement.   It was an new sense of punk and pop culture but shown in designer fashion.  The fashion industry was blown away by the audacity of the concept and Sprouse's first collections were bought by Bergdorf Goodman and Henri Bendel in the early 80's.   Neon and Day-glo had not been seen this way on 5th Avenue before Sprouse came to town.SPROUSE DESIGNED ALBUM COVER

When I think of Stephen Sprouse a mix of images come to mind.   I was an intern with photographer Francesco Scavullo and Stephen would visit the studio.   He had a dynamic image that he styled for himself.   Physically he reminded me of a cross between Iggy Pop and the Grinch - in the best possible way.   With signature Black tights and knit hat - with long hair (later wigs) it was the soft spoken, quiet person underneath that was a surprise.

Sprouse was greatly influenced by Andy Warhol.   At one point setting up his design studio in the former and final location of Warhol's Factory near Union Square.   Later, Sprouse received permission by the Warhol estate to use some of the artist's camouflage shortly after his death.   

In my mind  Stephen Sprouse always makes me think of artist's Kenny Sharf and Keith Haring.   In some strange way, they seem like the 3 students of the school of Warhol.   SPROUSE FOR LOUIS VUITTON

Clearly, Sprouse was a huge inspiration to many designers himself.   Most notably - Marc Jacobs.   Jacobs would take the hippie sensibility Stephen was tapping into when he designed the grunge collection for Perry Ellis that got him fired from the house - but set him on the road to his own greatness.  

In 2001 Jacobs brought Sprouse into the golden spotlight of Louis Vuitton.   The two collaborated on the graffiti monogram collection that became coveted collectibles the minute the hit the shelves at LV stores around the world.  While still remaining under the radar of main stream America, Sprouse landed  a hugely commercial gig   His collection for Target Stores called "Americaland" again tapped into that Americana sensibility that was in his DNA.   The collection ranged from flip flops and beach umbrellas to men's and women's clothing.    I had a boogie board and inner tube that were huge hits on the beach of Water Island that summer.    From Trailer Park to Park Ave.,  Stephen Sprouse designs were everywhere!

Stephen Sprouse is front and center again.   Celebrating the release of a fantastic book on the Artist and coordinated with Louis Vuitton boutiques - there are many places to learn about Sprouse.   Click on Louis Vuitton for a current retail experience  or click on Deitch projects for the current gallery retrospective.

The last time I saw Stephen Sprouse was late one night in Soho.   I love to take long walks by myself at night around New York.   It was around 11pm on a weekday and I came around a corner and almost bumped into Stephen.   He had on his signature black uniform - by this time long dark wig under his cap.   He startledSPROUSE FOR TARGET me which I think he liked as he smirked when our eyes met.    To some extent - I think that what he was always after.   An element of surprise - and giving what wasn't expected - something original.    How few people are like Stephen was.   Stephen Sprouse died of lung cancer in 2004 at the age of 50.