STELLA'S SHANGHAI SURPRISE!

YOU DON'T SEE COLLECTION PREVIEWS LIKE THIS IN THE U.K.!!!! - DANCERS ERUPT AT STELLA McCARTNEY FALL PREVIEW IN SHANGHAIThe busiest woman in the world of designer fashion just took Asia by storm!  Stella McCartney blew through China with star studded events in not 1, not 2, but 4 cities in 10 days!   This on the heels of the Met Ball where Stella represented her cool kid style in spades.   Stella knows what women want, and also what smart, cool women want.   The fashion flocks in China clearly LOVE Stella.   The fun started in Shanghai, where a Fall Collection preview turned into a performance worthy of a Glee season premiere!    The Astor House Hotel was the historic venue for the presentation that wouldDANCERS, MODELS, AND A PRIMA BALLERINA (ALL IN STELLA McCARTNEY) WELCOME STELLA TO SHANGHAI become the party of the season.   Mid presentation, couples began ball room dancing, then modern in a surprise choreographed performance created by Bianca Li.  The dancers were electrified by Daft Punk's "Around the World" - the hit single and video that Bianca Li herself Choreographed.   Li has also worked with Kanye West and Paul McCartney.   Coincidently, Daft Punk just recently released their first studio album in eight years..RANDOM ACCESS MEMORIES-and it has raced to the top of the charts on both sides of the Atlantic!   But then again, who else but chart toppers would team Stella have to spontaneously flash-mob / dance for the collection preview?  STELLA McCARTNEY & KATE MOSS IN HONG KONG Forget Fashion's Night Out, Stella events are full scale fun! 

Onward to Beijing and Tokyo for new Stella Store openings!  McCartney continues to raise the bar on her retail events all around the world.  In the U.S. shoppers are used to lavish spreads and flowing champagne when a luxury brand previews the latest collection.   In the U.K. STELLA McCARTNEY WINTER 2013 COLLECTION PREVIEWhowever, shoppers at most brand openings are lucky to see an open bag of crisps, regardless if you are on Bond Street or High Street.  Let's give this very British designer credit when credit is due!  

Stella McCartney really is in a league of her own when it comes to retail events and her approach to media presentations.   Most press events feel like contractual agreements between a "brand" and a "star".  On the contrary, Stella McCartney parties are the coolest thing happening in town, so of course there are some celebs there - some even in the family!

The finale of this marathon of killer events was a presentation to coincide with Art Basel Hong Kong.  Luxe department store Lane Crawford hosted the event at the British Embassy.  Supermodel Kate Moss just happened to make it.  The fashion flock might be a jaded bunch, they all leave smiling from a Stella McCartney party.   It goes without saying all the girls carry Stella's bags and LOVE the oversized jackets or jumpsuits she does so well.   Look for the navy chalk stripe pieces in the Fall collection..  MUST HAVES!    See you on Mars Stella - I mean what else could top this Asia blitz?   CLICK IMAGES TO LEARN MORE. 

STELLA McCARTNEY SPRING 2013

PRADA & GATSBY - PERFECT CASTING?

THE GREAT GATSBY

The latest version of the great F. Scott Fitgerald's Classic tale of unrequited love and the spoils of new money is brought to the big screen this year by Baz Luhrmann.   Who better to dive in to the big budget opulence of the furs, diamonds, and mansions that the roaring 1920's dripped in?   Luhrmann brought us the worldwide blockbuster - Moulin Rouge- the film that made Hollywood believe in musicals again.   It was big, brash, and full of bold color.  It was also gave Nicole Kidman's box office draw a huge boost.  As a follow up Baz brought us a tale from down under - Australia.   This patriotic epic staring - yes - Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman was awaited with baited breath...but almost died of asphyxiation.   Well.. it brought box office.. it is the second highest grossing Australian film of all time, behind Crocodile Dundee.  However, with almost triple the production budget of Moulin Rouge (130 Million versus 50) it was not the success everyone hoped it would be.  Breathtaking scenery and a classic tale, but it just didn't pop.  Five years later, Lurhmann has a budget, a cast, a classic,  and brace yourselves - 3D Technology!   He is known to be the most enthusiastic film maker out there, and it is true that he has a vision.   Strictly Ballroom was a low budget film that made critics and movie goers take notice and put Luhrmann on the map.  It was also a film about ballroom dancing competitions, which was at the time, about as obscure a subject as you could imagine.  Needless to say, Baz is not used to following the herd.

The Great Gatsby is of course an American Classic.   The 1974 box office version starring Robert Redford and Mia Farrow is legendary.   A legend so big it would take a quite a nerve to remake it, enter CAREY MULLIGAN AS DAISY IN THE GREAT GATSBY 2013 - BY PRADA Baz Luhrmann.   Leonardo DiCaprio stars as Jay Gatsby, the elusive tycoon in the mansion on the water.  Carey Mulligan stars as Daisy, the detached, delicate flower that stole Gatsby's heart and inspired his quest for opulent riches.  Jay-Z produced the hip hop filled sound track, with stand out performances by Lana Del Rey, Jay-Z, Fergie, Florence + The Machine, Bryan Ferry and more.  No, this is not your father's Gatsby, or your grandfather's Fitzgerald!  

DiCaprio gives a strong performance, Carrie Mulligan pales in comparison to Farrow.   Tobey Maguire was theTOBEY MAGUIRE AS NICK - THE GREAT GATSBY - BROOKS BROTHERS most memorable performance for me.  His boy next door, meets Mr. Rogers delivery of Nick, the narrator of the story is what stuck with me.  Also, Elizabeth Debicki as Jordan was impossible not to watch, in every scene she was in. 

As a fashion fanatic, of course the first thought whenELIZABETH DEBICKI AS JORDAN - THE GREAT GATSBY I heard Gatsby was coming to the big screen was - WHO will do the costumes?   Would it be Ralph Lauren?  Lauren was made a household name with the wardrobe he created for Robert Redford the last time Gatsby was on the big screen.   The tailored suits that were retro-modern would become as iconic as the Armani wardrobe that great designer created for Richard Gere in American Gigolo.  There were rumors that Salvatore Ferragamo would do the Men's clothing - a perfect fit considering the custom made to measure Su Misura Suiting offered exclusivelyCAREY MULLIGAN AS DAISY, FROM THE GREAT GATSBY, IN MIU MIU, FROM THE PAGES OF VOGUE at 8 flagship boutiques worldwide.  (5th Avenue is the U.S. exclusive, with Chicago to add the service in September) and the Tramezza handmade shoes the house sells so well to all those investment bankers.   There was also talk that J.Crew was in the running.  Another credible choice considering the super popular Ludlow Shops the company has added exclusively for the guys.   The intimate lounge like stores offer everything from socks to Tuxedos - all inspired by their oh-so-sought after Ludlow Suit.   After all, the film is called The Great Gatsby, not the Great Daisy...so the menswear is paramount.  Who would it be?   Then came the announcement.  Costume designer Catherine Martin, who also happens to be Mrs. Baz Luhrman, would partner with Miuccia Prada to create over 40 costumes for the film.  The two were said to have poured over Miu Miu and Prada archives to recreate just the right look.  Prada is known as the perennial source for retro fashion looks, so it is not too shocking Ms. Martin made this choice.   I was disappointed, as I've never been a huge fan of Prada.. and less so over the last few years.   The good news was, this was just for the women.  For the guys - Brooks Brothers would be the choice, and they hit it out of the park.  The colors and cuts were impeccable and made the men pop off the screen.   Brooks Brothers was able to take vintage styling of the 20's and make them relevant for today.   The company worked closely with Catherine Martin to search their own archives from that time.   The real life characters of the Gatsby era wore Brooks Brothers.   Just as the women did wear Tiffany diamonds - as the characters do in this production.   Martin also worked with Tiffany & Co. to recreate jewelry that would have been adorning the wrists, necks, and fingers of the rich, famous, and hoity-toity ladies that ran the scene of New York and Long Island's North Shore.

I have never understood the appeal of Prada.   Yes, I got the craze of the tiny nylon backpack in the 90's that set the company up as accessories royalty, but as a house of RTW - I don't get it.  The ad campaigns also leave me numb.   Fashion is about seduction.  You should be seduced or be seducing.   With the Prada ads, I'm more often scratching my head than adjusting my collar.   If you don't want to be the ad, or have sex with someone the ad - what's the point?  Not to mention I do believe Miucca Prada is a misogynist.   With all the talk of male designers who torture women on the runway - Mugler, McQueen, or even Gaultier, I think Miuccia Prada does more to erase a woman's beauty and neutralize her mystique than any of those men.

Then there's Patrizio Bertelli.   Miuccia's husband and partner in all things Prada, Berteli has been offending people in the industry for as long as he has beenPRADA FALL / WINTER 2012 part of the Prada empire.   With his infamous micro-management style and tyrannical outbursts - more than one head hunter has had to start a conversation with potential employees saying "I know you don't want to work there, but" - for many, money talks.   Bertelli has also irked many of his fashion peers with his desire to loosen the definition and standards of  the "Made In Italy" designation.   Bertelli has openly said he sees production in China as a valid way to meet demand for his luxury goods.  The trouble is that luxury goods by definition have always been created by taking the finest raw materials and having trained artisans craft beautiful clothing, shoes, and accessories under pristine working conditions.   Bertelil's desire is no doubt a way to lower production costs and increase profits - not a formula for creating a luxury good.   One outspoken opponent of Bertelli's concept of loosening Italy's legacy of craftsmanship is Brunello Cucinelli.  Cucinelli has built his empire with celebrating the fine, high tailoring of lifestyle items for men and women.    Bertelli thought he had outsmarted his luxury goods buying clients by creating his own designation "Made by Prada".   Supposedly this would ensure customers that regardless of the country the item was made in, it would be under the fine tutelage of Prada employees.   Designer customers aren't buying this rationale. 

Add to this, the current legal dispute between a former Prada Executive and Prada Japan, aka- the lawsuit that just won't go away.    Rina Bovrisse was a Chanel Executive in the U.S. for about 10 years before moving back to Japan, lured by Prada for what she thought was a wonderful opportunity.   In the end, Rina would be fired, which she claims was retaliation for her refusal to fire employees deemed "too ugly","too fat," or "not having the Prada look" by Prada Japan CEO David Sesia.   Rina herself was allegedly told she was "disgusting to look at" and Sesia said he was embarrassed for Italian executives visiting from Milan, to see Bovrisse.  One look at Ms. Bovrisse would make it clear if Mr. Sesia made these statements, he must be delusional.  Rina sued and although the Japanese courts agreed Prada has sexually harassed her, they sided with the company.RINA BOVRISSE LEAVES JAPANESE DISTRICT COURT IN TOKYO  The Japanese government issued a non-statement statement basically saying Prada was guilty of the accusations, but that it should be expected in the fashion industry!  Bovrisse is now being counter sued by Prada Japan for making false statements against the company.  Charming huh.   Instead of giving Bovrisse a settlement and apologizing to women in Japan, and around the world, the company is now trying to intimidate others that might have charges to bring against the company.   Luckily Change.org has started a petition in her name that has quickly collected over 200,000 signatures.  Major publications like the Huffington Post, Vogue.com, and others are taking up the cause every day.   The United Nations has now also weighed in on the side of Ms. Bovrisse.  Click the link above to add your name to the petition.

For these reasons, and for the impossible comparison to Robert Redford, Mia Farrow, and Karen Black, The Great Gatsby of 2013 left me yearning to rent the 1974 version.  Also, I was sorry I had paid to see it in 3D, when you hardly need the glasses except for a few party scenes.  However, flying confetti and words jumping off the page seems like a real insult to the technology.   Maybe Luhrmann should have mixed in Madonna samples throughout the film as he did in Moulin Rouge.   Those over the top references to the Material Girl of the 80's and the original of the 50's - Marilyn Monroe were part of the secret sauce that pushed the fun factor to the max in Moulin Rouge.    This not-so-Great Gatsby could have used something that wasn't so gimmicky - as the words jumped off the page - they slapped you in the face.    Click images to learn more.  Watch the trailer below:

FEELING LUCKY.. PUNK? - MET BALL REBELLION

Gird your loins!!! - Anna Wintour's Met Ball is happening NOW.   Make plans to visit the MET this Spring to see the latest exhibit in the Costume Institute.   This years theme is PUNK.   See how this anti-establishment movement has come full circle.   Irony at it's best!  Click over to watch the red carpet arrivals live - or to follow up on what went down!!  (It's better than being there).

Update on Tuesday, May 7, 2013 at 11:21AM by JASON JOBSON

MADONNA IN GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE - MET GALA 2013The Queen of Pop and the Queen of Style proved to once again reigned supreme over the Met Ball.  Madonna wowed the crowd and took the theme - PUNK - seriously in Givenchy Haute Couture.   While so many fizzled in their attempt at punk, Madonna nailed it.   But then again, you knew she would! 

Madonna skipped the event last year due to her MDNA tour MADONNA IN STELLA McCARTNEY - MET GALA 2011schedule.   In 2011, she also stole the show in a custom made Stella McCartney gown that took your breath away.   The master of reinvention - still in charge!!

DEVIL THAT CREATED ANGEL RETURNS - MUGLER BACK IN THE HOUSE

EVA MENDES FOR ANGELJust when we thought all the rebelious fashion designers were being pushed aside by corporate soldiers just looking to make bank- Thierry Mugler gets drawn back in!   Over the pastANGEL PARFUM - THE ICONIC FRAGRANCE CREATED BY THIERRY MUGLER few years, the industry saw a bit of a declawing of some of the most creative and troubled souls.   Alexander McQueen ended his own life, John Galliano threw his job at Dior away with an antisemitic tirade, and Nicolas Ghesquiere up and left Balenciaga.   While Ghesquiere is not exactly James Dean in the rebel department, his designs did push the boundaries of what was expected on a Parisian runway.  There are those that would say Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld are rebels,but in reality - they are both commercial designers working with luxury materials, which gives it novelty.   In fairness Karl usually starts a trend that Marc and most other designers follow.

Thierry Mugler however, THIERRY MUGLER'S FAMOUS ROBOT SUIT -WORN BY JOANNE - LATE 90'Sthis is a rebel.  His collections that stormed the runways in the 80's through the late nineties were showstoppers that were so sexually charged, they raised the blood pressure of editors, buyers, and designer customers around the world.   During Mugler's heyday, he was the epitome of cool, chic, French fashion.  With exaggerated shoulders, busts, and hips - a Thierry Mugler skirt suit gave women an hourglass figure that could stop traffic.  The fit was so extreme in fact, some called Mugler a misogynist.VINTAGE MUGLER SKIRT SUIT WITH JEWEL ENCRUSTED BUSTIER  Ironic as to Thierry, he was empowering women to use their sexuality to rule the world.   Mugler himself is a six foot tall, tattooed, tanned, muscled Frenchman - often in leather pants and a codpiece.   His early years as a ballet dancer would shape his approach to design, his staging of runway shows, and just about everything he created.   Star Trek and Barbarella where also two powerful influences on how he saw the world of his dreams.   

His instincts made Mugler a famous designer, but the quality and savoir-faire of the RTW the house produced made him a legend in fashion circles.   The quality was impeccable.  The fabric, the finishing, and the hardware.  Thierry made every detail an experience.  The star shaped ornaments that served as jacket closures were custom made by a jewelry house.   The fabric covered snaps that would hold every womens jacket and mens shirt closed were perfect little works of art.    

Then his groundbreaking fragrance ANGEL was created, which would change Thierry's life forever.  Like the greatest French fashion house before him, it would become the cash cow for the houseTHIERRY MUGLER & MUSE - JERRY HALL - VH-1 / VOGUE - FASHION MUSIC AWARDS - LATE 90'S and take the legend of Thierry Mugler to a global audience.   Soon the skincare legend Clarins would be involved, and ultimately buy controlling interest in the company.  Thierry became a very rich man, but he remained the rebel that made him a star.  NEW POP SENSATION AND FASION "IT" GIRL- RITA ORA- IN MUGLEREventually the RTW collection would close, but not before Mugler showed true Couture in Paris - a distinction that most designer collections have never achieved.  The name disappeared from runways and from the lips of most in the fashion world, but not those obsessed wtih the world of fragrance.   Angel would grow to become a huge brand in fragrance spawning additional scents - Alien, and Womanity.   Strong, distinctive, and unlike anything you have ever worn - just what you expect from Thierry.   Mugler would remain as creative director of fragrances up until early 2013.  

Lady Gaga would be the catalyst to re-launch the fashion house of Thierry Mugler.  Gaga's stylist Nicola Formichetti would dress her in a custom Mugler ensemble, and like the effect she had on Alexander McQueen, suddenly the name Mugler was back.   Formichetti would be named creative director of a newly retooled MUGLER collection.   Not the RTW Parisian collection it had been, but a more cartoon like version of the diffusion line that already existed.  This reincarnation of MUGLER would star Gaga herself in the first runway show in Paris.   This newly launched MUGLER was not a commercial success.  It was no surprise for anyone in the industry, as choosing Formichetti to head a French fashion house was a bit absurd. NICOLA FORMICHETTI & LADY GAGA - IN MUGLER ON THE MUGLER RUNWAY It was almost as odd as the brief moment Lindsay Lohan was chosen as co-creative director of Ungaro.   Of course that did not work.   THIERRY "MANFRED" MUGLER IN 2012Formichetti had Gaga as his ace card, and even her immense fame could not make a collection relevent.

So now in 2013 it has been announced that Thierry Mugler himself will be returning to the company he founded.  Not as creative director, but as a creative consultant. These days Theirry prefers to be called Manfred Mugler, and his physical appearance remains as much a work in progress as his fashion designs.    It remains to be seen what this will actually mean - but we can all hope Thierry Mugler will return to the Paris runways soon.  It's hard to imagine Thierry aka Manfred taking direction from anyone, so stay tuned for how this development plays out.