PRADA & GATSBY - PERFECT CASTING?

THE GREAT GATSBY

The latest version of the great F. Scott Fitgerald's Classic tale of unrequited love and the spoils of new money is brought to the big screen this year by Baz Luhrmann.   Who better to dive in to the big budget opulence of the furs, diamonds, and mansions that the roaring 1920's dripped in?   Luhrmann brought us the worldwide blockbuster - Moulin Rouge- the film that made Hollywood believe in musicals again.   It was big, brash, and full of bold color.  It was also gave Nicole Kidman's box office draw a huge boost.  As a follow up Baz brought us a tale from down under - Australia.   This patriotic epic staring - yes - Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman was awaited with baited breath...but almost died of asphyxiation.   Well.. it brought box office.. it is the second highest grossing Australian film of all time, behind Crocodile Dundee.  However, with almost triple the production budget of Moulin Rouge (130 Million versus 50) it was not the success everyone hoped it would be.  Breathtaking scenery and a classic tale, but it just didn't pop.  Five years later, Lurhmann has a budget, a cast, a classic,  and brace yourselves - 3D Technology!   He is known to be the most enthusiastic film maker out there, and it is true that he has a vision.   Strictly Ballroom was a low budget film that made critics and movie goers take notice and put Luhrmann on the map.  It was also a film about ballroom dancing competitions, which was at the time, about as obscure a subject as you could imagine.  Needless to say, Baz is not used to following the herd.

The Great Gatsby is of course an American Classic.   The 1974 box office version starring Robert Redford and Mia Farrow is legendary.   A legend so big it would take a quite a nerve to remake it, enter CAREY MULLIGAN AS DAISY IN THE GREAT GATSBY 2013 - BY PRADA Baz Luhrmann.   Leonardo DiCaprio stars as Jay Gatsby, the elusive tycoon in the mansion on the water.  Carey Mulligan stars as Daisy, the detached, delicate flower that stole Gatsby's heart and inspired his quest for opulent riches.  Jay-Z produced the hip hop filled sound track, with stand out performances by Lana Del Rey, Jay-Z, Fergie, Florence + The Machine, Bryan Ferry and more.  No, this is not your father's Gatsby, or your grandfather's Fitzgerald!  

DiCaprio gives a strong performance, Carrie Mulligan pales in comparison to Farrow.   Tobey Maguire was theTOBEY MAGUIRE AS NICK - THE GREAT GATSBY - BROOKS BROTHERS most memorable performance for me.  His boy next door, meets Mr. Rogers delivery of Nick, the narrator of the story is what stuck with me.  Also, Elizabeth Debicki as Jordan was impossible not to watch, in every scene she was in. 

As a fashion fanatic, of course the first thought whenELIZABETH DEBICKI AS JORDAN - THE GREAT GATSBY I heard Gatsby was coming to the big screen was - WHO will do the costumes?   Would it be Ralph Lauren?  Lauren was made a household name with the wardrobe he created for Robert Redford the last time Gatsby was on the big screen.   The tailored suits that were retro-modern would become as iconic as the Armani wardrobe that great designer created for Richard Gere in American Gigolo.  There were rumors that Salvatore Ferragamo would do the Men's clothing - a perfect fit considering the custom made to measure Su Misura Suiting offered exclusivelyCAREY MULLIGAN AS DAISY, FROM THE GREAT GATSBY, IN MIU MIU, FROM THE PAGES OF VOGUE at 8 flagship boutiques worldwide.  (5th Avenue is the U.S. exclusive, with Chicago to add the service in September) and the Tramezza handmade shoes the house sells so well to all those investment bankers.   There was also talk that J.Crew was in the running.  Another credible choice considering the super popular Ludlow Shops the company has added exclusively for the guys.   The intimate lounge like stores offer everything from socks to Tuxedos - all inspired by their oh-so-sought after Ludlow Suit.   After all, the film is called The Great Gatsby, not the Great Daisy...so the menswear is paramount.  Who would it be?   Then came the announcement.  Costume designer Catherine Martin, who also happens to be Mrs. Baz Luhrman, would partner with Miuccia Prada to create over 40 costumes for the film.  The two were said to have poured over Miu Miu and Prada archives to recreate just the right look.  Prada is known as the perennial source for retro fashion looks, so it is not too shocking Ms. Martin made this choice.   I was disappointed, as I've never been a huge fan of Prada.. and less so over the last few years.   The good news was, this was just for the women.  For the guys - Brooks Brothers would be the choice, and they hit it out of the park.  The colors and cuts were impeccable and made the men pop off the screen.   Brooks Brothers was able to take vintage styling of the 20's and make them relevant for today.   The company worked closely with Catherine Martin to search their own archives from that time.   The real life characters of the Gatsby era wore Brooks Brothers.   Just as the women did wear Tiffany diamonds - as the characters do in this production.   Martin also worked with Tiffany & Co. to recreate jewelry that would have been adorning the wrists, necks, and fingers of the rich, famous, and hoity-toity ladies that ran the scene of New York and Long Island's North Shore.

I have never understood the appeal of Prada.   Yes, I got the craze of the tiny nylon backpack in the 90's that set the company up as accessories royalty, but as a house of RTW - I don't get it.  The ad campaigns also leave me numb.   Fashion is about seduction.  You should be seduced or be seducing.   With the Prada ads, I'm more often scratching my head than adjusting my collar.   If you don't want to be the ad, or have sex with someone the ad - what's the point?  Not to mention I do believe Miucca Prada is a misogynist.   With all the talk of male designers who torture women on the runway - Mugler, McQueen, or even Gaultier, I think Miuccia Prada does more to erase a woman's beauty and neutralize her mystique than any of those men.

Then there's Patrizio Bertelli.   Miuccia's husband and partner in all things Prada, Berteli has been offending people in the industry for as long as he has beenPRADA FALL / WINTER 2012 part of the Prada empire.   With his infamous micro-management style and tyrannical outbursts - more than one head hunter has had to start a conversation with potential employees saying "I know you don't want to work there, but" - for many, money talks.   Bertelli has also irked many of his fashion peers with his desire to loosen the definition and standards of  the "Made In Italy" designation.   Bertelli has openly said he sees production in China as a valid way to meet demand for his luxury goods.  The trouble is that luxury goods by definition have always been created by taking the finest raw materials and having trained artisans craft beautiful clothing, shoes, and accessories under pristine working conditions.   Bertelil's desire is no doubt a way to lower production costs and increase profits - not a formula for creating a luxury good.   One outspoken opponent of Bertelli's concept of loosening Italy's legacy of craftsmanship is Brunello Cucinelli.  Cucinelli has built his empire with celebrating the fine, high tailoring of lifestyle items for men and women.    Bertelli thought he had outsmarted his luxury goods buying clients by creating his own designation "Made by Prada".   Supposedly this would ensure customers that regardless of the country the item was made in, it would be under the fine tutelage of Prada employees.   Designer customers aren't buying this rationale. 

Add to this, the current legal dispute between a former Prada Executive and Prada Japan, aka- the lawsuit that just won't go away.    Rina Bovrisse was a Chanel Executive in the U.S. for about 10 years before moving back to Japan, lured by Prada for what she thought was a wonderful opportunity.   In the end, Rina would be fired, which she claims was retaliation for her refusal to fire employees deemed "too ugly","too fat," or "not having the Prada look" by Prada Japan CEO David Sesia.   Rina herself was allegedly told she was "disgusting to look at" and Sesia said he was embarrassed for Italian executives visiting from Milan, to see Bovrisse.  One look at Ms. Bovrisse would make it clear if Mr. Sesia made these statements, he must be delusional.  Rina sued and although the Japanese courts agreed Prada has sexually harassed her, they sided with the company.RINA BOVRISSE LEAVES JAPANESE DISTRICT COURT IN TOKYO  The Japanese government issued a non-statement statement basically saying Prada was guilty of the accusations, but that it should be expected in the fashion industry!  Bovrisse is now being counter sued by Prada Japan for making false statements against the company.  Charming huh.   Instead of giving Bovrisse a settlement and apologizing to women in Japan, and around the world, the company is now trying to intimidate others that might have charges to bring against the company.   Luckily Change.org has started a petition in her name that has quickly collected over 200,000 signatures.  Major publications like the Huffington Post, Vogue.com, and others are taking up the cause every day.   The United Nations has now also weighed in on the side of Ms. Bovrisse.  Click the link above to add your name to the petition.

For these reasons, and for the impossible comparison to Robert Redford, Mia Farrow, and Karen Black, The Great Gatsby of 2013 left me yearning to rent the 1974 version.  Also, I was sorry I had paid to see it in 3D, when you hardly need the glasses except for a few party scenes.  However, flying confetti and words jumping off the page seems like a real insult to the technology.   Maybe Luhrmann should have mixed in Madonna samples throughout the film as he did in Moulin Rouge.   Those over the top references to the Material Girl of the 80's and the original of the 50's - Marilyn Monroe were part of the secret sauce that pushed the fun factor to the max in Moulin Rouge.    This not-so-Great Gatsby could have used something that wasn't so gimmicky - as the words jumped off the page - they slapped you in the face.    Click images to learn more.  Watch the trailer below: