CAMPAIGN WATCH - FALL 2012

It's go time!  In September, it's not just Political Super PACs  that are spending millions of dollars to get your vote.  Let's take a look at the other campaigns vying for your attention... you know - the FASHION campaigns!   Regardless of your politics, fashion designers from New York to Paris want to make sure you remember their name the next time you go shopping.   As in Politics, the fashion world has different schools of thought - Conservatives, Classics, Modernists, etc.   Let's take a look:

The Modernists 

The most prolific fashion designer to come out of London in a generation has the most modern campaign for Fall in the truest sense of the word.   Stella McCartney has so many facets to her fashion empireSTELLA McCARTNEY FALL 2012- SEXY, MODERN, & COOL these days that it's a pleasure to see her ads sparkle with such a clean, crisp campaign this Winter.   Beautiful and inspiring McCartney is able to make you smile, and make you pretty.  Also in the brand DNA is the sense of social responsibility with green materials, no use of leather, and her strong support of PETA.

Captain Karl at Chanel had the future on his mind, or at least on the runway.   While it wasn't a clean cut Jetsons image of tomorrow, the post-apocalyptic / Blade Runner vision was a look Karl hasn't visited since her put planets on the runway for his last collection for Chloe in 1996. CHANEL FALL 2012 - OUT OF THIS WORLD... AT LEAST. The ads look more like Tank Girl than Mad-Max to me, but fans will find the items that speak to them!   Check a planet near you for the latest Chanel fashion.

The Classics

New York fashion clients have always appreciated classic looks with European styling.  Oscar de la Renta has built his career on perfecting appropriate looks for the discriminating ladies who lunch.   Sarah Jessica Parker helped revive the company image for the new millennium viaOSCAR de la RENTA - FALL 2012 the sleeveless party dress Oscar does so well.   Parker made it the choice of fictional "it" girl Carrie Bradshaw of Sex & The City.   Fashionista's around the world took note.   Three years ago the company made it's most strategic move by hiring away John Galliano's right hand from the Couture atelier of Christian Dior. (Reported here in September of 2009- Oscar adds Couture?).  Galliano's public meltdown and dethroning were yet to come at the time, and his erratic behavior was unknown to the public.  At ODLR, the collection was taken to a new level.   Now, there is a level of sophistication not seen elsewhere in any American design house.  Unfortunately for his PR team, Oscar dresses more wives of Republican candidates than he does Oscar nominees.   Nancy Reagan, Laura Bush, & Anne Romney have all worn Oscar.   Regardless of the ladies on the right, the Fall campaign is elegant, beautiful, and flattering!

One of the most iconic ready-to-wear collections in the world lives on the Avenue Montaigne in Paris.  Christian Dior was the man responsible for re-launching the fashion industry after World War II. MILA KUNIS FOR CHRISTIAN DIOR -FALL 2012 His return to old world glamour made women around the world dream again after so much pain, death, and destruction had filled their lives during the war.   In just 10 years, Dior created a legend.  His untimely death in 1957 helped to create the next generations most famous designer -Yves Saint Laurent.  Saint Laurent took the helm at Dior for a short time, and would go on to be the most iconic French designer of his generation through his own YSL Label.   British designer John Galliano took Dior Couture to a place that would be hard to ever match.   No fashion house has ever had three consecutive designers as talented and famous as Dior, Saint Laurent, & Galliano.  Raf Simmons will debut his first RTW collection for Dior at the Spring 2013 show.   His premiere couture collection for the house will hit the runway for Spring 2013.  It was trumpeted by the industry, but Simmons had only a few weeks to create the collection - having just been hired.   The Fall RTW collection in stores now is the "ghost" collection designed by team member-Bill Gaytten.   (You almost need a score card to keep track of this one!)  Mila Kunis of Black Swan fame plays the starlet in Dior's Fall campaign.   It's retro, classic, and beautiful.   The campaign would be perfect if it didn't borrow a storyline directly from a past Chanel campaign.   The Dior boutiques even borrow the black silhouettes of paparazzi with a flashing bulb in the windows, as Karl did at Chanel during the Nicole Kidman #5 Campaign in 2007.   It is pretty.

The Romantics

The second big trend this season with modernity is romance.  What can we say, we love it.   Lady Gaga earned her fame by pointing out that even a bad romance, hurts so good.  What better designers to honor Romantic designs and Baroque detailing - the Italians! SALVATORE FERRAGAMO - FALL 2012 - STARRING KATE MOSS First stop is Florence and the house of Salvatore Ferragamo.  The Tuscan Soul of this, "about to be" 85 year old house of luxury fashion, has never been more vibrant.   Massimiliano Giornetti's tenure as creative director of Ferragamo has been cemented by his ability to energize the base of the brand, while also regaining the attention and respect of fashion editors and celebrities.   Red carpet royalty such as Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt, and Recording Royalty such as Beyonce, Lady Gaga, & Madonna all agree.  For Fall 2012, Giornetti looked to the folklore of Russian heritage: Embroidery, Faberge Eggs, & Astrakhan fur.  Next Giornetti posed Kate Moss in photos so rich in color and texture - it almost hurts to look at them.  Kate Moss for Ferragamo is stunning, and shoppers are flocking the boutiques for the arrival of the Fall collection now!

VALENTINO FALL 2012Over in Rome, the storied House of Valentino is giving us full on drama for Fall 2012. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli created a Baroque fantasy with embellished gowns and studded accessories to keep her stylish and well adorned. The accessories at Valentino have a harder edge this season than in recent years.  Rows of metal studs give leather bags and shoes an attitude that ruffles and flowers just can't convey!

The Question Marks  ?????

Despite the glamour and decadence of the designer fashion collections and the countless hours of attention every detail demands in a multi-million dollar ad campaign - there are always a few that leave you scratching your head.   Fall 2012 is no exception.   Here are three worth scratching.

PRADA FALL 2012 PRADA - I must admit, I rarely relate to Prada ads.   I never want to be anyone in the ads - and I never want to have sex with anyone in the ads.  Without either of these instincts - a fashion ad has failed.   I don't think Miucca likes fashion.   I'm not even convinced she likes Women.   If she liked either, the collection would be prettier.

Louis Vuitton -  Creative Director Marc Jacobs seems to have turned a corner with Fall 2012.   It looks like he has finally stopped the tradition of borrowing LOUIS VUITTON FALL 2012ideas from the previous Chanel season.  Unfortunately, it seems he has started borrowing ideas from the previous seasons of the Prada & Marni Collections.    The mashed up cartoon version of both are featured in the Louis Vuitton Fall ads.   The theme is luxury travel, a popular choice for Fall.  Sadly, few Women would want to be going wherever these gals are headed.  It's as if they are following some mandatory modesty rules.  Designer fashion should celebrate Women's liberation, not remind them of the dark ages or the religious cults that still operate as if it still was.MARC JACOBS COLLECTION - FALL2012

Marc Jacobs - I've saved the best or worst for last.   While MJ has made his career on geek-chic and proving gorgeous models can celebrate "it's hip to be square", his Fall campaign takes the cake.  With a designer like Marc who has two runway shows to design, the formula is usually a similar concept for both - with his namesake collection showing a more concentrated version of what you saw at LV.   Truth be told, neither collection sells a major amount of RTW.  At Louis Vuitton, it's all about leather goods.  Actually, it's all about accessories - as most there are coated canvas pressed monogram materials with leather accents.   Jacob's Fall campaign looks like Tim Burton's view of what "H.R. Pufenstuf the Movie" would be like.   Think Lindsay Lohan the morning after, moments before deciding that rehab just might be a good idea.   Fashionable?  Glamorous?  

Overall, this is just the tip of the iceberg.   Get to your favorite fashion boutique sooner than later.  The stores are full of beautiful merchandise and you know the good stuff always goes first!  Happy Fall!!

TESLA BOY AT FERRAGAMO - FASHION'S NIGHT OUT

CLICK TO LISTENRussian Synth Pop Band Tesla Boy takes to the stage for one of their first ever U.S. performances at the largest Ferragamo boutique in the world during Fashion's Night Out on September 6th in NYC!   The jaw-dropping flagship of this Tuscan legend that covers over 26,000 square feet will host a most RUSSIA'S TESLA BOYappropriately Russian themed fete "From Russia With Love", celebrating the Fall 2012 runway collection of creative director Massimiliano Giornetti.   Giornetti looked to iconic Russian style with Folkloric embroidery, military tailoring, Faberge eggs, fur, and much more for his uber-luxe fall collection.    Russia's most stylish fashion editors, models, & stylists will be on hand to celebrate! (and I'm sure a little Vodka!).  Will you be there?    Fashion's Night Out is Thursday September 6th, 2012.KATE MOSS IN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO - FALL 2012

Update on Friday, September 21, 2012 at 1:05AM by JASON JOBSON

What a night it was!!! 

MARYNA LINCHUK, ELENA PERMINOVA, HILLARY RHODA, & ANYA ZIOUROVA - STUNNING SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FALL 2012

LITTLE MISS STELLA - ROGER HARGREAVES

Stella McCartney - as you've never seen her!   Stella adds yet another milestone on the longest checklist of any fashion designer.   Olympic Uniforms - Check.  Children's collection - Check. LITTLE MISS COLLECTION - STELLA McCARTNEY  Lingerie Collection - Check.   Now, subject of a children's cartoon book - Check!   The legendary series Mr. Men-Little Miss by Roger Hargreaves pays homage to Stella.

To celebrate the story, McCartney has created a capsule collection within Stella McCartney Kids. 

To learn how to get your copy of this limited edition book - click - Little Miss Stella.

BATTLE OF THE BURCH'S

TORY BURCH LOGOThis Summer shoppers in SOHO and some upscale centers across the country have an interesting choice when looking for cheap and cheerful fashion items that won't break the bank.   The financial powerhouse behind Tory Burch  has launched a new collection that many have said is a bit too similar to the TB brand. TORY BURCH Tory Burch herself is nonplussed with ex-husband and fellow Tory Burch board member Chris Burch for his epicure of color known at C Wonder.   With prices even lower than Tory Burch, C Wonder offers shoppers classic items like totes and ballet flats in a happy, shiny space on Spring Street.  More like the little sister to Tory Burch, C. Wonder is filling a niche that hasn't really existed.  Think Tweens of The Carrie Diaries.

Tory Burch is the WASPY-looking Blond behind the first socially acceptable non-designer brand in a decade.  (Michael Kors has since stolen her thunder).  Her "imported" (made in China, Brazil,etc) Reva ballet flats are half the price of the gorgeous made in Italy originals from CHANEL, but they became a status item for shoppers. TORY BURCH REVA FLATS  Burch was able to bridge the gap between mothers in their 40's & 50's and daughters in the their teens and twenties.   Finally, both had a collection they could buy at Neiman Marcus and share, at a fraction of what designer fashion from Italy or France costs.   That's the new reality at NM -aspirational shoppers.  Once the most luxurious department store in American retail history, NM now embraces brands like Tory Burch and GASP - Rachel Zoe...

To her credit, Tory Burch put together a powerhouse team of design talent to create the collection she had planned with husband Chris Burch.   TORY BURCH BOUTIQUE - KOREAHaving started her career on 7th avenue in public relations , Burch knew how to arrange the pieces of the puzzle.   Not a designer, Tory's role was living the image.   The upper-middle class lifestyle of the Main Line in Philadelphia.  Blond, WASPY, put together, and preppy, marries well and lives in a 5th avenue penthouse.   Enter Chris Burch.  He filled several pieces of the puzzle - financially successful, and factory connected in China.   Both key elements to this non-designer -yet portrayed as luxury retail tale.   Oprah Winfrey lit the fuse of the retail dynamite for Tory by featuring her on The Oprah Winfrey Show in 2005.   Retail Fireworks!    (Chris & Tory Burch would divorce in 2006).

For the creative pieces of the puzzle, Burch brought in talented designers for Ready-To-Wear and Accessories.  Stephanie von Watzdorf brought MONIKA CHIANG & CHRIS BURCH PH: BILLY FARRELL AGENCYthe clothing to life and Katherine Fleming put accessories in the bag for Tory Burch!   Both of these ladies brought something very different to the table - which blended perfectly.   Ms. Watzdorf - a chic sense of European class and culture wrapped in a bohemian shell.  Ms. Flemming - an edgy art girl with a taste for caviar dressings.   The results were fresh, new, and had women from all ends of the demographic categories looking for that TB logo.  *Both have since left the company to launch their own creative projects.  Look for von Watzdorf's Figue - launching this Fall- sure to be a super chic success!C WONDER LOGO

While American shoppers interest in Tory is fizzling, international tourists are still clamouring for all things TB.  Lines of customers behind a velvet rope at the Ala Moana center in Honolulu, Hawaii for example regularly stretch down the mall.   This is part of a great marketing strategy.   Opening stores in malls across America, and now the world even if they stores themselves have a tiny footprint compared to most of the neighboring brands.   The shops designed by architect / designer Daniel Romualdez have glitz and glamour, with brass and lacquer appear full with shoppers if just a few young ladies are enjoying the view.  Nothing puts this aspirational shopper in a frenzy more than seeing a line waiting to get in.C. WONDER SOHO BY CHRIS BURCH  After all, she has been trained by Abercrombie, so now as she graduates to Tory Burch the velvet roped line is familiar.  Smart?  

Re-enter Chris Burch.   C. WONDER HOLIDAY 12 PREVIEWNever one to be out of the retail loop, Mr. Burch launched his C. Wonder with monograms, china, tote bags, ballet flats, and neon painted walls.  A bit Willy Wonka in the advertising style to launch the boutique in Soho - with little said in the full page ad - other than C. Wonder, Burch seems to be sending a message to ex wife Tory.   What is the message?  Chris Burch won't be forgotten by the preppy young shopper - not anytime soon.  Hiring Michael Leva as Creative Director, also show Burch is building a team with experience.  Leva has in turn hired away a talented staff from 7th Avenue design houses.  C. Wonder has 7 locations open now - with 3 more currently in the planning.THE CARRIE DIARIES - CANDACE BUSHNELL

Another message seems more personal as Burch also launched the new collection and SOHO boutique of his current girlfriend Monica Chiang.   I haven't wrapped my head around the collection yet, but to his credit - Burch has hired industry heavyweight Terence Bogan as GMM (General Merchandise Manager) of the brand.   Bogan is well known by most in the industry as he shaped the look of Barneys Coop departments for 17 years.  

TB or CW - you be the judge - click images to check out both stores.