BATTLE OF THE BURCH'S
Thursday, August 9, 2012 at 11:56PM
JASON JOBSON in Battle of the Burch's, C. Wonder, Stephanie von Watzdorf Figue, Terence Bogan, The Carrie Diaries Chris Burch, Tory Burch

TORY BURCH LOGOThis Summer shoppers in SOHO and some upscale centers across the country have an interesting choice when looking for cheap and cheerful fashion items that won't break the bank.   The financial powerhouse behind Tory Burch  has launched a new collection that many have said is a bit too similar to the TB brand. TORY BURCH Tory Burch herself is nonplussed with ex-husband and fellow Tory Burch board member Chris Burch for his epicure of color known at C Wonder.   With prices even lower than Tory Burch, C Wonder offers shoppers classic items like totes and ballet flats in a happy, shiny space on Spring Street.  More like the little sister to Tory Burch, C. Wonder is filling a niche that hasn't really existed.  Think Tweens of The Carrie Diaries.

Tory Burch is the WASPY-looking Blond behind the first socially acceptable non-designer brand in a decade.  (Michael Kors has since stolen her thunder).  Her "imported" (made in China, Brazil,etc) Reva ballet flats are half the price of the gorgeous made in Italy originals from CHANEL, but they became a status item for shoppers. TORY BURCH REVA FLATS  Burch was able to bridge the gap between mothers in their 40's & 50's and daughters in the their teens and twenties.   Finally, both had a collection they could buy at Neiman Marcus and share, at a fraction of what designer fashion from Italy or France costs.   That's the new reality at NM -aspirational shoppers.  Once the most luxurious department store in American retail history, NM now embraces brands like Tory Burch and GASP - Rachel Zoe...

To her credit, Tory Burch put together a powerhouse team of design talent to create the collection she had planned with husband Chris Burch.   TORY BURCH BOUTIQUE - KOREAHaving started her career on 7th avenue in public relations , Burch knew how to arrange the pieces of the puzzle.   Not a designer, Tory's role was living the image.   The upper-middle class lifestyle of the Main Line in Philadelphia.  Blond, WASPY, put together, and preppy, marries well and lives in a 5th avenue penthouse.   Enter Chris Burch.  He filled several pieces of the puzzle - financially successful, and factory connected in China.   Both key elements to this non-designer -yet portrayed as luxury retail tale.   Oprah Winfrey lit the fuse of the retail dynamite for Tory by featuring her on The Oprah Winfrey Show in 2005.   Retail Fireworks!    (Chris & Tory Burch would divorce in 2006).

For the creative pieces of the puzzle, Burch brought in talented designers for Ready-To-Wear and Accessories.  Stephanie von Watzdorf brought MONIKA CHIANG & CHRIS BURCH PH: BILLY FARRELL AGENCYthe clothing to life and Katherine Fleming put accessories in the bag for Tory Burch!   Both of these ladies brought something very different to the table - which blended perfectly.   Ms. Watzdorf - a chic sense of European class and culture wrapped in a bohemian shell.  Ms. Flemming - an edgy art girl with a taste for caviar dressings.   The results were fresh, new, and had women from all ends of the demographic categories looking for that TB logo.  *Both have since left the company to launch their own creative projects.  Look for von Watzdorf's Figue - launching this Fall- sure to be a super chic success!C WONDER LOGO

While American shoppers interest in Tory is fizzling, international tourists are still clamouring for all things TB.  Lines of customers behind a velvet rope at the Ala Moana center in Honolulu, Hawaii for example regularly stretch down the mall.   This is part of a great marketing strategy.   Opening stores in malls across America, and now the world even if they stores themselves have a tiny footprint compared to most of the neighboring brands.   The shops designed by architect / designer Daniel Romualdez have glitz and glamour, with brass and lacquer appear full with shoppers if just a few young ladies are enjoying the view.  Nothing puts this aspirational shopper in a frenzy more than seeing a line waiting to get in.C. WONDER SOHO BY CHRIS BURCH  After all, she has been trained by Abercrombie, so now as she graduates to Tory Burch the velvet roped line is familiar.  Smart?  

Re-enter Chris Burch.   C. WONDER HOLIDAY 12 PREVIEWNever one to be out of the retail loop, Mr. Burch launched his C. Wonder with monograms, china, tote bags, ballet flats, and neon painted walls.  A bit Willy Wonka in the advertising style to launch the boutique in Soho - with little said in the full page ad - other than C. Wonder, Burch seems to be sending a message to ex wife Tory.   What is the message?  Chris Burch won't be forgotten by the preppy young shopper - not anytime soon.  Hiring Michael Leva as Creative Director, also show Burch is building a team with experience.  Leva has in turn hired away a talented staff from 7th Avenue design houses.  C. Wonder has 7 locations open now - with 3 more currently in the planning.THE CARRIE DIARIES - CANDACE BUSHNELL

Another message seems more personal as Burch also launched the new collection and SOHO boutique of his current girlfriend Monica Chiang.   I haven't wrapped my head around the collection yet, but to his credit - Burch has hired industry heavyweight Terence Bogan as GMM (General Merchandise Manager) of the brand.   Bogan is well known by most in the industry as he shaped the look of Barneys Coop departments for 17 years.  

TB or CW - you be the judge - click images to check out both stores.

 

 

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