AMERICAN APPAREL WAREHOUSE SALE IN NYCThe U.S. Olympic Committee and Ralph Lauren got a massive amount of free press this week with a backlash over the fact that the U.S. Olympians would be wearing uniforms made in China in the 2012 games. It was not the press they wanted. Since it is an election year in the U.S., politicians on both sides of the aisle were "outraged". The trouble is, the situation is nothing new. Ralph Lauren has produced uniforms for the Olympics before, and has produced the majority of his clothing in China for quite some time. The issue is a red herring. Where are most running shoes made? Adidas? Nike? I think you know the answer.
The blame should be heavier on the shoulders of the U.S. Olympic Committee and their lack of foresight and quite frankly - their lack of patriotism. There is more blame to go around. You can't bill yourself as the quintessential American designer and produce goods in China without eventually getting some flack for it.
AMERICAN APPAREL CEO - DOV CHARNEY
The issue is bigger than just this Olympic situation. The American Fashion industry is not taken seriously on an artistic level, because it's biggest names and most successful companies don't produce goods here in the U.S. Italian designers support Italian artisans and make goods in Italy. French designers support French Savoir Faire and French artisans and make these items in France. Let's save some blame for the C.F.D.A. as well. The anemic organization is a shadow of what it once was - The Council of Fashion Designers of America.
Many companies produce goods in certain countries that have a renowned knowledge and history of manufacturing that item. Italy is famous for leather goods -shoes and handbags, Spain for small leather goods such as wallets and cases, Scotland for Cashmere, France for fine clothing, etc, etc. In addition, workers in the European zone have the most protected working conditions in the Western world. With regulated wages, safety standards, and even minimum vacation time - they have what most would have once called "The American Dream" of conditions. There are no reports of inhumane treatment of workers or deaths and suicides attributed to overworked employees in Europe as there has been in China. That would happen once in Europe and there would be public outrage.
American companies made a very different decision starting in the late 80's to move production from the United States to China. The reason? - greater profits. The companies took jobs away from talented individuals here in the US so that the profit margin would be higher. The companies were successful and profitable, but moving jobs to China would make them more profitable. There were no fine artisans in China at the time. There were also no factories large enough to meet American demand.
The blame however is not solely on the fashion designers that have made billions of dollars, and sent millions of jobs overseas. Frankly, the blame is on the American consumer. We should have responded by not buying these items and supporting Made In USA merchandise. Instead, many consumers go to places like Walmart. A company that forces manufacturers to move production to China, so they can beat the price of any competitor in the United States. The consumer saves a few dollars and buys twice the number of pants, toys, etc... and somehow feels better? Even if they have literally put themselves or their neighbors out of work.
Let's celebrate a company that has done the exact opposite of this popular formula. American Apparel has become the largest manufacturer of clothing in America by creating a vertically integrated company that handles all aspects of production in their Los Angeles based factory. The company now has 285 stores in 20 countries around world. They have revitalized the Made In USA cache in many places where it was all but forgotten.
Suddenly, AA seems a little bit cooler. I've been a fan for a long time. The CEO, Dov Charneyis eccentric to say the least. His personal life, and behavior, has created legal problems for himself and the company more than once. Despite this, I think the company is one of the coolest places to shop. They offer basic items that can pull together a whole look. Many of the chicest designer collections from France and Italy have had looks pulled together with an American Apparel t-shirt, or legging, or pair of jeans by savvy salespeople and/or customers. Frankly, if a guy like Dov Charney can figure out Made in USA, then the billionaires on 7th avenue surely could. You just have to want it.
The most interesting detail of the Olympic drama is the news that Russia has been in talks with American Apparel to make their Olympic uniforms for 2014. Russia does not want uniforms made in China. Ironic isn't it?
Ralph Lauren issued a statement saying that it will make the 2014 Olympic uniforms in the United States. Show your support of Made in USA manufacturing by visiting an American Apparel store or website!